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 ADVANCED
Central Gully
Select Route:
Blue In Green 
Footprints 
Helicopter Effect 
Magali's Arete 
Objectivist Tendencies 
Rational Expectations 
Seven Steps to Heaven 
Snickerdoodle 
Spontaneous Order 
Straight, No Chaser 
Tee it Up, Cupcake 

Spontaneous Order 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type: Sport, 4 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (April 2008)
Page Views: 1,867
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Nov 25, 2008
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Des starting the 2nd pitch.

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Description 

An outstanding link up that combines pitches from 4 different routes to climb the western wall of the Central Gully. All belays are positioned at spacious ledges with tremendous views. The summit is spectacular.

While the climbing is not as continuous or quite as high quality as P.I.H., the length and diversity of climbing makes this one of the single best outings in the Fortress.

Pitch 1: Footprints (5.4)
Pitch 2: Blue In Green (5.6 PG13)
Pitch 3: Choose between Magali's Arete, the right-hand variation, and
Rational Expectations, on the left (both 5.7)
Pitch 4: Seven Steps to Heaven (5.10a)


Location 

Climbs the right-hand (western) wall of the Central Gully. Approach as for Footprints.

There are 2 possible descents:
Option 1: Rappel the route that you climb, except rappel from the top of Blue In Green to the bottom of Snickerdoodle and then scramble to the top of Footprints (Blue In Green is over 100 feet long!!!)
Option 2: Rappel into the Right Side Gully utilizing anchors on Adaptive Expectations, Capitalism & Freedom, and Free to Choose


Protection 

Mostly big fat bolts. A "Fortress Rack" will help fill the gaps on pitches 2 & 3. All belays are bolted.



Photos of Spontaneous Order Slideshow Add Photo
Romain and Alberto enjoy the stunning exposure of the summit block, atop Spontaneous Order, in the Fortress.
Romain and Alberto enjoy the stunning exposure of ...
Marisa Fienup pulls the final few moves before reaching the top of Spontaneous Order, at the Fortress.
Marisa Fienup pulls the final few moves before rea...
Route topo for Spontaneous Order (5.10a, 4 pitches) at the Fortress
Route topo for Spontaneous Order (5.10a, 4 pitches...
David Abzug climbs Rational Expectations as David Hoffberg looks on.
David Abzug climbs Rational Expectations as David ...
Amy nears the top of the summit block on Spontaneous Order, at the Fortress.
Amy nears the top of the summit block on Spontaneo...
Nicole climbs the third pitch of Spontaneous Order, at the Fortress.
Nicole climbs the third pitch of Spontaneous Order...
Doug belays Bill up the final pitch.
Doug belays Bill up the final pitch.
Comments on Spontaneous Order Add Comment
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 24, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Describing this as a 4 pitch route is inaccurate and misleading. It is nowhere near 350 feet long, as stated in the description above. From the top of "Footprints" (which is 3rd class terrain), Spontaneous Order is easily climbed in two 100' pitches with no rope drag (this is how we did it), and could very likely be done in a single 200' pitch. With the exception of one 5.8 crux move near the top, I found no climbing harder than 5.6 on the entire route.

More discussion at New routing at "The Fortress" (Ventura).

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 7, 2010

Readers of Mike's post should not be induced to rappel straight down the 2nd pitch (a.k.a. "Blue in Green") with a 60 m rope. If you do not rappel off the ends of your rope and take the plunge, you will need to down-climb some fifth class rock to get to the next anchor.

That pitch is over 30m long.

The two pitches above are certainly not long, but their combined length is well over 100 feet. Mike's comments are detached from reality.

By John Knight
Jan 19, 2011

In my opinion (not that it really matters), this is really a linkup of 4 separate routes and does not get my vote as a single, 4-pitch route. In spite of what Mike Morley says, Pitch 1 ("Footprints") is mostly 4th class with a small spot of 5th Class (maybe 5.2 but who wants to argue over whether a climb is 5.2 or 5.4). Anyway, just go out and climb all or part of this linkup. I think you'll have fun.