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Tiny Tots Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cole Lewis T 
Date Rape T,TR 
Dinky Doinks T 
Fatal Flaw T 
Spontaneous Human Combustion T 
Tinker Toys T 

Spontaneous Human Combustion 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Evans, Angione - 10/88
Season: When it's cold
Page Views: 235
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Apr 24, 2006

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..figuring out the moves past bolt number 2...

Description 

Clip bolt 1 and aim to stand on a small knob to clip bolt 2, which is an old Leeper. Marginal friction leads to bolt 3, which seems newer. Aim for a flat black hold, which enables a clip into another old Leeper (1/4 incher). A righthand sidepull flake leads, with ones head exploding, to the roof and a cam. Finish either left (large cam) or right. Rope drag can be a problem.

Location 

The right edge of Tiny Tots

Protection 

4 bolts and cams for the upper crack. A full length fall onto bolt 4 might shear it off. Until the upper 3 bolts are replced this route is an R/X IMHO.


Photos of Spontaneous Human Combustion Slideshow Add Photo
And onto the knob - Tony Tennessee
And onto the knob - Tony Tennessee
...a very tenuous situation...
...a very tenuous situation...
...and beginning to move past the final bolt.
...and beginning to move past the final bolt.

Comments on Spontaneous Human Combustion Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 24, 2006

I led this route about 10 years ago, when young and foolish, and Tony followed (and Fred Batliner also). Both of us agreed that it was a lot more desperate than we remembered; must've expunged it from our memories, or we're just getting old - or perhaps both.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 27, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Thin, hard, steep slab. Need I say more?