Spontaneous Human Combustion 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Evans, Angione - 10/88 |
| Season: | When it's cold |
| Submitted By: | Chris Owen on Apr 24, 2006 |
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And onto the knob - Tony Tennessee
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Description Clip bolt 1 and aim to stand on a small knob to clip bolt 2, which is an old Leeper. Marginal friction leads to bolt 3, which seems newer. Aim for a flat black hold, which enables a clip into another old Leeper (1/4 incher). A righthand sidepull flake leads, with ones head exploding, to the roof and a cam. Finish either left (large cam) or right. Rope drag can be a problem.
Location The right edge of Tiny Tots
Protection 4 bolts and cams for the upper crack. A full length fall onto bolt 4 might shear it off. Until the upper 3 bolts are replced this route is an R/X IMHO.
...a very tenuous situation...
| ..figuring out the moves past bolt number 2...
| ...and beginning to move past the final bolt.
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| Comments on Spontaneous Human Combustion |
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By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Apr 24, 2006
| I led this route about 10 years ago, when young and foolish, and Tony followed (and Fred Batliner also). Both of us agreed that it was a lot more desperate than we remembered; must've expunged it from our memories, or we're just getting old - or perhaps both. |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Apr 27, 2006 rating: 5.11+
| Thin, hard, steep slab. Need I say more? |
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