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Tiny Tots Rock
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Spontaneous Human Combustion 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Evans, Angione - 10/88
Season: When it's cold
Page Views: 198
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Apr 24, 2006
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..figuring out the moves past bolt number 2...

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Description 

Clip bolt 1 and aim to stand on a small knob to clip bolt 2, which is an old Leeper. Marginal friction leads to bolt 3, which seems newer. Aim for a flat black hold, which enables a clip into another old Leeper (1/4 incher). A righthand sidepull flake leads, with ones head exploding, to the roof and a cam. Finish either left (large cam) or right. Rope drag can be a problem.


Location 

The right edge of Tiny Tots


Protection 

4 bolts and cams for the upper crack. A full length fall onto bolt 4 might shear it off. Until the upper 3 bolts are replced this route is an R/X IMHO.



Photos of Spontaneous Human Combustion Slideshow Add Photo
And onto the knob - Tony Tennessee
And onto the knob - Tony Tennessee
...a very tenuous situation...
...a very tenuous situation...
...and beginning to move past the final bolt.
...and beginning to move past the final bolt.
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 24, 2006

I led this route about 10 years ago, when young and foolish, and Tony followed (and Fred Batliner also). Both of us agreed that it was a lot more desperate than we remembered; must've expunged it from our memories, or we're just getting old - or perhaps both.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 27, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Thin, hard, steep slab. Need I say more?