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Spontaneity Arete T 
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Spontaneity Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,839
Submitted By: atfarley on Jul 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Pitch 7

Description 

Every pitch feels like 5.7: (Descriptions are Approx.)

1st: from snag on exposed side of ridge follow cracks up to just below the roof

2nd: under roof and out right another 50 ft.

Class 3 for ten mins

3rd: start on the steepening ground and follow cracks up until comfortable or you reach the base of a 10" crack.

4th: Find or start up 10" crack (gear to left), short. Once on top follow finger and hand cracks until past a shallow gully and bushes, belay at flat section.

5th: follow crack in corner to the right, or cracks strait above to a tree. Follow corner that the tree is in (lieback). Once above corner follow moderate ground before another steepening in the ridge.

6th: follow cracks (picture) up to less steep ground. Belay after ~140 feet, before final head wall which has #3 crack out left.
7th: optional, #3 crack Left of an easier gully. Short, two or three pieces, but well worth it.

Descend the route (careful, some rope stretching raps with a 60)


Location 

(In Mazama Guide book) From the Pullout across the valley from the formation follow climbers trail, which starts at south then of pull off, down to the creek and back up the opposite side of the valley. The sandy ledges start about ~100-150 Left of the drainage (Picture.) Following these ledges up and Left, following easiest ground, will get you to the fixed lines. From the top of the fixed lines scramble up and a little right to gain a weak ridge line. From here follow the developing ridge to where the ridge steepens into upper 5th class. From these few trees traverse out left to find the snag mentioned in the book and vertical (#3) 5.7 crack, both of which are on the more exposed part of the ridge. This is where the first pitch starts.

Protection 

Cams to #3 and nuts, doubles of #1. Extendable runners.


Photos of Spontaneity Arete Slideshow Add Photo
class 3 after pitch two
class 3 after pitch two
Pitch 2 roof
Pitch 2 roof
Pitch 6
Pitch 6
Rapping pitch 4
Rapping pitch 4

Comments on Spontaneity Arete Add Comment
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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Oct 20, 2011

You can easily walk off via the gully on the lookers right with no rappels.
By Lindsey Frallic
From: Bellingham
Jul 23, 2012

Recommended if you are confident you will finish the climb as the more sustained pitches are toward the top. Takes sun later into the day in the summer. Route finding is straight forward for a ridge climb in the Cascades. The 5.9 boulder move option described in Brian's guide is exciting. A good beginner/intermediate trad route as it's not overly committing, there is plenty of space to practice building anchors above established rap stations, it lends itself to some scrambling/simul-climbing, and there is opportunity for down-climbing if you decide not to walk the gully.
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Jul 26, 2012

Good route but not great. Climb it 21-Jul-2012.

The approach has three fixed lines. On the approach, when you get to a small grotto climb up and right to get to the third fixed line.

We merged pitches 3, 4 and 5 into two pitches. Even so, we never placed more then 6 pieces on any pitch. Pitch 2 requiring the most gear. Recommend you take about nine slings, of which two or three double length, for slinging trees. We never used any thing smaller then .75 Camalot nor bigger then 3 and we used a few mid-size nuts.

On the climb when you get to a rap anchor, continue climbing for about 20 to 30 feet beyond the anchor to get to a nicer belay spot.

Pitches 6 and 7 are the money pitches. Pitch 2 even though not rated as hard as pitch 7, to us it seemed to be the crux of the climb.

Pitch 7 has a variation. Instead of doing the awesome 5.7 leaning crack (by far the better of the two choices). Climb the block shallow troth to the right. Walk a short ledge to an exposed step, and the start of another steep indentation. Climb it to the top.

After pitch 7 there is about 200 to 300 feet of 3rd and a 4th class move at the summit. If going all the way to the summit you are committing to descend the gully. From the summit one rap toward to gully will get you down. One 60m rope will work, but a 70m would be nicer however this is the only time a 70m would be nicer then a 60m on this climb.

Once in the gully stay in it until you can easily get back on the ridge at the 3rd class section between pitches 2 and 3. Down climb and rap the ridge until you get to the start of pitch 2 (just before the roof). From here it is an easy hike down the gully to the start of pitch one.

The trail back may be difficult to follow in the dark.
By Marq Diamond
May 12, 2013

Some fun pitches interspersed with choss scrambling and low angle dirt. Difficult approach is longer than it looks. When not soloing the dirt, we moved together.

Definitely not 4 stars. Would struggle to give it 2. Nonetheless, good day for some fitness training and choss-dogging.

I would have enjoyed it a lot more if I hadn't read the over-inflated topos describing the routes.
By Curtveld
May 26, 2014

Enjoyable long alpine-style route will take a 5.7 climber most of a day. Beta in the comments is more useful than the main description - never did find the 10" crack?!

The route-finding is trickier for the approach than the route. If you haven't passed all three hand lines, you're not at the climb yet. The 'Pac-man' overhang on pitch two is obvious from the start and visible from the highway.

The big flake on pitch 2 is loose and should be trundled, but isn't too tricky to climb around with caution.

Single 60 rope is fine with some low-fifth down climbing.