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Spontaneity Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 4,035
Submitted By: atfarley on Jul 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Pitch 2 roof


Every pitch feels like 5.7: (Descriptions are Approx.)

1st: from snag on exposed side of ridge follow cracks up to just below the roof

2nd: under roof and out right another 50 ft.

Class 3 for ten mins

3rd: start on the steepening ground and follow cracks up until comfortable or you reach the base of a 10" crack.

4th: Find or start up 10" crack (gear to left), short. Once on top follow finger and hand cracks until past a shallow gully and bushes, belay at flat section.

5th: follow crack in corner to the right, or cracks strait above to a tree. Follow corner that the tree is in (lieback). Once above corner follow moderate ground before another steepening in the ridge.

6th: follow cracks (picture) up to less steep ground. Belay after ~140 feet, before final head wall which has #3 crack out left.
7th: optional, #3 crack Left of an easier gully. Short, two or three pieces, but well worth it.

Descend the route (careful, some rope stretching raps with a 60)


(In Mazama Guide book) From the Pullout across the valley from the formation follow climbers trail, which starts at south then of pull off, down to the creek and back up the opposite side of the valley. The sandy ledges start about ~100-150 Left of the drainage (Picture.) Following these ledges up and Left, following easiest ground, will get you to the fixed lines. From the top of the fixed lines scramble up and a little right to gain a weak ridge line. From here follow the developing ridge to where the ridge steepens into upper 5th class. From these few trees traverse out left to find the snag mentioned in the book and vertical (#3) 5.7 crack, both of which are on the more exposed part of the ridge. This is where the first pitch starts.


Cams to #3 and nuts, doubles of #1. Extendable runners.

Photos of Spontaneity Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rapping pitch 4
Rapping pitch 4
class 3 after pitch two
class 3 after pitch two
Pitch 7
Pitch 7
Pitch 6
Pitch 6
taylor climbing the Goldie Crack on the last pitch...
taylor climbing the Goldie Crack on the last pitch...

Comments on Spontaneity Arete Add Comment
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By Nick Drake
Jun 22, 2015

Trundled a 3x4' flake that was extremely loose and threatened to rock out on my leg just below the intermediate rap station (first rap station on route). It only took a moderate pull with two fingers to let out. When it went the block below around the size of a refrigerator cut loose. They kicked out another piece further down. In total enough granite went flying to take a tree or two, the explosion was quite exciting.

This created a rather blank section on the face, but it's still easily bypassed and if you hadn't been on the route already you wouldn't miss the crack that lower block formed.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Oct 20, 2011

You can easily walk off via the gully on the lookers right with no rappels.
By Lindsey Frallic
From: Bellingham
Jul 23, 2012

Recommended if you are confident you will finish the climb as the more sustained pitches are toward the top. Takes sun later into the day in the summer. Route finding is straight forward for a ridge climb in the Cascades. The 5.9 boulder move option described in Brian's guide is exciting. A good beginner/intermediate trad route as it's not overly committing, there is plenty of space to practice building anchors above established rap stations, it lends itself to some scrambling/simul-climbing, and there is opportunity for down-climbing if you decide not to walk the gully.
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Jul 26, 2012

Good route but not great. Climb it 21-Jul-2012.

The approach has three fixed lines. On the approach, when you get to a small grotto climb up and right to get to the third fixed line.

We merged pitches 3, 4 and 5 into two pitches. Even so, we never placed more then 6 pieces on any pitch. Pitch 2 requiring the most gear. Recommend you take about nine slings, of which two or three double length, for slinging trees. We never used any thing smaller then .75 Camalot nor bigger then 3 and we used a few mid-size nuts.

On the climb when you get to a rap anchor, continue climbing for about 20 to 30 feet beyond the anchor to get to a nicer belay spot.

Pitches 6 and 7 are the money pitches. Pitch 2 even though not rated as hard as pitch 7, to us it seemed to be the crux of the climb.

Pitch 7 has a variation. Instead of doing the awesome 5.7 leaning crack (by far the better of the two choices). Climb the block shallow troth to the right. Walk a short ledge to an exposed step, and the start of another steep indentation. Climb it to the top.

After pitch 7 there is about 200 to 300 feet of 3rd and a 4th class move at the summit. If going all the way to the summit you are committing to descend the gully. From the summit one rap toward to gully will get you down. One 60m rope will work, but a 70m would be nicer however this is the only time a 70m would be nicer then a 60m on this climb.

Once in the gully stay in it until you can easily get back on the ridge at the 3rd class section between pitches 2 and 3. Down climb and rap the ridge until you get to the start of pitch 2 (just before the roof). From here it is an easy hike down the gully to the start of pitch one.

The trail back may be difficult to follow in the dark.
By Marq Diamond
May 12, 2013

Some fun pitches interspersed with choss scrambling and low angle dirt. Difficult approach is longer than it looks. When not soloing the dirt, we moved together.

Definitely not 4 stars. Would struggle to give it 2. Nonetheless, good day for some fitness training and choss-dogging.

I would have enjoyed it a lot more if I hadn't read the over-inflated topos describing the routes.
By Curtveld
May 26, 2014

Enjoyable long alpine-style route will take a 5.7 climber most of a day. Beta in the comments is more useful than the main description - never did find the 10" crack?!

The route-finding is trickier for the approach than the route. If you haven't passed all three hand lines, you're not at the climb yet. The 'Pac-man' overhang on pitch two is obvious from the start and visible from the highway.

The big flake on pitch 2 is loose and should be trundled, but isn't too tricky to climb around with caution.

Single 60 rope is fine with some low-fifth down climbing.
By PeteMorgan
Sep 25, 2014

I typically try to avoid repelling but the gully did not look very inviting, so we rapped the top pitches, probably 4 or 5 raps. then walked in the gully. this was a mistake, we should have stayed on the ridge and down climbed to the top of the 2nd pitch and then rapped from there once more. the gully was tediously slow and super loose. the upper part of the gully might have been okay, but the bottom section was terrible, i would not enter that gully if there was another party above you. we were alone up there so wasnt an issue.

bring a light rack. you dont really need to build any belays, there are trees abundant.

approach is short and easy to follow. the route was easy to follow to. lots of 3rd class mixed with low 5th class and small sections of 5.6/5.7, overall fun route with great views.
By Nick Drake
Jun 22, 2015

If you're a newer 5.7 alpine leader this could be a fun route as the 5.7 sections aren't terrible sustained and gear options abound. I believe what is described here in the 7th pitch, which starts as a wide crack and narrows, is the funnest of the route. You can protect a deck with a red tri cam (used a pink, it worked but was at the end of it's range) in a horizontal left of the crack, then plug a smaller piece in the main crack above where it widens and avoid using a #3. We did bring a #3 and didn't miss it. If in doubt though bring a 3 and place it here.

If you scramble the gully to the start of P3 and look at where the rap line drops in there is a really fun 5.8 (follower though 8+) lieback finger crack that quickly eases up. You can bump out right just above it to minimize rope drag for the rest of this pitch.

Cams .4-#2, with doubles of .75 and 1. One set of nuts. One pink tricam.
Lieback 5.8ish finger crack to start P3 out of the...
Lieback 5.8ish finger crack to start P3 out of the gully. Stay scrambling right of the arete when it starts to bump up in blocky terrain. Protects with .4 and .3 off deck, one move wonder as it eases up past the bulge.
By Morrismc
From: Portland, Or
Jul 23, 2015

54 minutes from the car
2 hours for the climb
40 minutes descent down gulley (nothing compared to tetons but be careful!)

Fun morning climb!

Bring a single rack if pitching it out. If simuling, a doubles in fingers were nice.

I'd highly recommend the gulley descent unless there are going to be people above and below you. In that case! Avoid it!
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