|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||atfarley on Jul 15, 2011|
|Comments on Spontaneity Arete||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Las Vegas
Oct 20, 2011
|You can easily walk off via the gully on the lookers right with no rappels.|
By Lindsey Frallic
Jul 23, 2012
|Recommended if you are confident you will finish the climb as the more sustained pitches are toward the top. Takes sun later into the day in the summer. Route finding is straight forward for a ridge climb in the Cascades. The 5.9 boulder move option described in Brian's guide is exciting. A good beginner/intermediate trad route as it's not overly committing, there is plenty of space to practice building anchors above established rap stations, it lends itself to some scrambling/simul-climbing, and there is opportunity for down-climbing if you decide not to walk the gully.|
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Jul 26, 2012
Good route but not great. Climb it 21-Jul-2012.
The approach has three fixed lines. On the approach, when you get to a small grotto climb up and right to get to the third fixed line.
We merged pitches 3, 4 and 5 into two pitches. Even so, we never placed more then 6 pieces on any pitch. Pitch 2 requiring the most gear. Recommend you take about nine slings, of which two or three double length, for slinging trees. We never used any thing smaller then .75 Camalot nor bigger then 3 and we used a few mid-size nuts.
On the climb when you get to a rap anchor, continue climbing for about 20 to 30 feet beyond the anchor to get to a nicer belay spot.
Pitches 6 and 7 are the money pitches. Pitch 2 even though not rated as hard as pitch 7, to us it seemed to be the crux of the climb.
Pitch 7 has a variation. Instead of doing the awesome 5.7 leaning crack (by far the better of the two choices). Climb the block shallow troth to the right. Walk a short ledge to an exposed step, and the start of another steep indentation. Climb it to the top.
After pitch 7 there is about 200 to 300 feet of 3rd and a 4th class move at the summit. If going all the way to the summit you are committing to descend the gully. From the summit one rap toward to gully will get you down. One 60m rope will work, but a 70m would be nicer – however this is the only time a 70m would be nicer then a 60m on this climb.
Once in the gully stay in it until you can easily get back on the ridge at the 3rd class section between pitches 2 and 3. Down climb and rap the ridge until you get to the start of pitch 2 (just before the roof). From here it is an easy hike down the gully to the start of pitch one.
The trail back may be difficult to follow in the dark.
By Marq Diamond
May 12, 2013
Some fun pitches interspersed with choss scrambling and low angle dirt. Difficult approach is longer than it looks. When not soloing the dirt, we moved together.
Definitely not 4 stars. Would struggle to give it 2. Nonetheless, good day for some fitness training and choss-dogging.
I would have enjoyed it a lot more if I hadn't read the over-inflated topos describing the routes.
May 26, 2014
Enjoyable long alpine-style route will take a 5.7 climber most of a day. Beta in the comments is more useful than the main description - never did find the 10" crack?!
The route-finding is trickier for the approach than the route. If you haven't passed all three hand lines, you're not at the climb yet. The 'Pac-man' overhang on pitch two is obvious from the start and visible from the highway.
The big flake on pitch 2 is loose and should be trundled, but isn't too tricky to climb around with caution.
Single 60 rope is fine with some low-fifth down climbing.