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Splitting Hares 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ignacio Delgado and Francis Baker 08/26/06 noon
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 2,706
Submitted By: Francis Baker (fran) on Aug 26, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: An updated beta photo.

Description 

This route follows a crack system for its entire length. The first pitch starts in a dihedral and finishes on classic red rock varnish face climbing, after passing a small roof. 85' 5.7. Build an anchor in the crack on a ledge just below and left of "Next Century" P1 bolts.

The second pitch starts with a nice white flake and then follows the weakness up to a roof via corner, crack, and face climbing. Surmount the roof and build a belay (opt. 1). Then work right (west) about 15' to the anchors for "Next Century". It would be possible to pull the roof and then traverse directly right to the anchors (opt. 2) and belay. 130' 5.9

Rappel "Next Century" with two ropes.

Location 

This line is 10' left (east) of "Next Century". Start in a dark dihedral with flakes capped by a white roof. The white flake starting pitch 2 is very visible from the base.

Protection 

A standard rack with doubles up to 2" for the long second pitch. Pitch 1 is a trad anchor.


Photos of Splitting Hares Slideshow Add Photo
Rex leading the second ascent of Splitting Hares.
Rex leading the second ascent of Splitting Hares.
Rex and Ignazio on pitch 2. Rex is leading.
Rex and Ignazio on pitch 2. Rex is leading.
This is a file photo of the wall. We did clean some of the bushes. The route ends just out of photo.
BETA PHOTO: This is a file photo of the wall. We did clean som...
just a little cleaning on the second ascent!
just a little cleaning on the second ascent!
Splitting Hares. Start of p2. Lieback crack.
BETA PHOTO: Splitting Hares. Start of p2. Lieback crack.

Comments on Splitting Hares Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 5, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fran, nice job on this route, it is really good. It's also a good way to reach the top of The Next Century from which you can top-rope the 5.10b/c second pitch - that was real fun, too.

We rappelled from the top of pitch 2 with two 60m ropes. The ropes won't reach the ground unless you aim some distance to the climber's right (west). In which case you can get down with a single rappel.

Pitch two is quite long so bring a generous rack.

John
By Jason D. Martin
Mar 31, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I climbed this route with Fran today and it was far better than expected. The bottom of the first pitch is a bit dirty, but after you're through that, it's quite fun climbing!

We broke the route up into three pitches and rapped off the bolts at the top of the second pitch of the Next Century. We were able to reach the ground with one double rope rappel.

About half way up the second pitch there was a fixed anchor which could be used to descend as well.

Jason
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The second pitch on this route is a true gem! Such fun climbing, good holds, well protected...couldnt ask for more!

Well done, Fran. My compliments!
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agree, great route. And the ability to TR the second pitch of Next Century makes it even better.