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Splitting Hares 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,152
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 23, 2003
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Description 

This route is located on the far right-side of the Bowling Alley, just right of a large, ponderosa tree fifty feet from the road. Climb up past two bolts and place gear in a thin crack. Make a dicey move left and clip a bolt in a small corner. Make some hard moves past the bolt and gain a good ledge. Fire up a short crack and reach a large ledge. Clip a bolt and make some cool face moves up to the anchor.


Protection 

Eight bolts plus (optional) small-to-medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.



Photos of Splitting Hares Slideshow Add Photo
Splitting Hares, A Tall Cool One, and Centennial. On Lower Bowling Alley, near the road. <br /> <br />Photo by Vaino Kodas; used with permission.
BETA PHOTO: Splitting Hares, A Tall Cool One, and Centennial. ...
Brad Schildt onsight.
Brad Schildt onsight.
Comments on Splitting Hares Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 9, 2013
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jun 25, 2003

Make sure you take small (Aliens) to mid-size (#2 Friend) cams. It seemed quite a bit harder than 5.10a, but then we were climbing it in the fog and mist! A good route with lots of diverse moves. It will be interesting to climb it in good weather.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 17, 2003

Anyone know what the route between Splitting Hairs and Centennial is?

By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 18, 2003

Thanks Bob...we climbed this yesterday, not knowing what we were climbing...but it felt (11ish) to me. The crux is clipping # 2 and also # 4 & #5...sustained.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 27, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

There are now 8 bolts on this route. We felt comfortable leading this without additional gear, although a 1" to 1.5" cam could be placed between the 4th and 5th bolts.

An enjoyable route; great stemming in the lower corner and a fun headwall at the top.

By Matt Gates
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Aug 13, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Fun climb. Went with a red Alien between the 4th and 5th bolts. The finishing moves on the face are a nice change-up from the climbing below.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Dec 4, 2007

Strenuous, awkward moves between the 3rd and 5th bolts. It felt pretty solid at 10a. The bolting is good. No gear necessary.

By D. Shaw
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13

10a/b is right on. Excellent pitch, worth doing. I am a chicken, and don't think you really need extra gear, except you might want to stick-clip the first bolt if you don't want the risk of a broken ankle.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 11, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

5.10a/b is good. There are plenty of opportunities for good rests with the features behind you. I was fine without any gear, but if this is near your limit bring some, because falls looked like they would not be clean. Overall a fun climb with lots of cool jams and stemming moves.

By brain damage
Jun 29, 2010

This route is great, I love all the diversity that comes with it. Cool stems with a face on top, you have to really look for hand and foot placement. I give it five stars. Great lead climb to help you mentally.

By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Climbed it today after backing off it last week. My partner/son led it and did a great job. I was a little freaked out. The area from the 3rd to 5th bolt seemed off balance and did not have a lot of real secure hands. Final headwall was cool, although the kid said that was the scariest part on lead. We did the crux differently. He found a two finger hold from which to clip bolt 5, I jammed the crack until able to reach the Thank God holds above. I'll be thinking about this one until I can come back and lead it in good style.

By Andrew Shoemaker
From: Garden Valley, ID
Jun 2, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Onsighted this route today and absolutely loved it. Definitely something I will climb again. Awesome moves from hand jams, finger jams, liebacks, and crimps. Went up without gear and did not even notice any runout. Seemed pretty safely bolted to me. At any rate I would def. reccomend doing this route.

By Sean Haney
Aug 28, 2011

Heads up: the bottom links on the anchor are fairly worn (perhaps 1/8-1/4 of the way through?). I don't know enough to know how much warrants replacement, so I thought I'd share this with someone who does. Needless to say we rapped off this one (as should be done, and as I always do). Fun climb! Thanks to the FAs.

By Rafiki
Jun 16, 2012

The bolting style is much different compared to other climbs at this crag. When you turn the corner at the top, you have to do a few moves on the headwall before clipping the bolt. A fall here would be ugly.

By Andrew Locke
From: Louisville, CO
Dec 9, 2013

This one is a little strange to me. The crux is committing and thought provoking, unless you can reach the small but very solid two finger hold up high. I did what I think most people do with some awkward hand jamming to reach the thank god holds above.

It's strange to me, because I've done the top pitch of Stayin' Alive twice, and both times I felt like it's harder than this one, though it looks like most other people think it's easier.

I'll have to jump on some other 10a/b in the area for more comparison, but maybe I just had a really good day.