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splitters near st.geezy
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By Tanner Wise
Sep 14, 2011
12b at turtle wall, st.george
Hoping to get down to St.George in the next few weeks, even though it'll be hotter than zeus' left tit. I was wondering where some really good indian creek-style splitters were (within about 40 min). I'm still a trad noob, although I think my crack technique is pretty decent. This means I need some top-rope access as my rack is lacking in cams. thanks for any info

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By ConorD
From Monf***ingtana
Sep 14, 2011
blodgett canyon
There are some sandstone splitters in St. George, right in town on the big sandstone bluffs. There is good info on them in the guide for the area, can probably get it a the gear store there. The climbs cannot be accessed for top rope, they are lead only, but a few of them may be varied enough for a light rack. About 10 worthwhile cracks if i remember.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Sep 14, 2011
it should actually be nice by the time you arrive- summer left this week, temps dropped below 100 in vegas...shady climbing will be nice from here until prolly mid/late oct.

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By Daaave
From SLC, UT
Sep 14, 2011
The climbs right above town (bluff street cracks) can take different sizes of gear and are relatively short so you shouldn't have too much trouble with a small rack. They also have a very short approach but are generally south facing so go early morning.

The Zen wall out by the green valley gap has some face and harder cracks climbs that may require more specific gear but can be toproped I believe. West facing climbs so morning wall and a longer approach.

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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Sep 16, 2011
Dow Williams, 2011
Bluff Street Cracks only has about four decent (and very short) splitters. The rest are dirty, not very challenging, etc.
Bluff Street Cracks


Our best splitters are located in the Underworld. Grades start in the 10's, decent length, no top roping.
Underworld


An overview of the area, first hand information. Good Luck
St. George Climbing

Why we like the heat...

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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Sep 16, 2011
Dow Williams, 2011
Atomic Indian (photo below) is the best spittler in Snow Canyon, 5.11, and prob what you are referencing..great one, but short. We have a few decent routes...I live on the State Park boundary, but the rock is not stellar in Snow Canyon even though it is my own back yard. A few routes have made it into mainstream, i.e. Living on the Edge, a four pitch 5.10c mixed route.
Snow Canyon

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By Minacanzon
From Las Vegas, nv
Dec 17, 2011
Bouldering @ Deadman's
Atomic Indian is NOT 5.11 in any way..sorry.. jus sayin. great climb BUT 5.10 max..

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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Dec 17, 2011
Dow Williams, 2011
Minacanzon wrote:
Atomic Indian is NOT 5.11 in any way..sorry.. jus sayin. great climb BUT 5.10 max..


FAer's establish the grade for their route dufus...not some self anointed Vegas hard man like yourself...they are generally softer in Red Rock and more difficult in Zion....St. George and vicinity is typically somewhere in between based entirely on who put up the route. If you have a bug up your ass about any grade in the desert, best to man up and discuss it with the FAer's directly vs spraying on the internet...just saying.

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By Dan L
From Bishop, CA
Dec 17, 2011
Keeler Needle and Whitney
Minacanzon wrote:
Atomic Indian is NOT 5.11 in any way..sorry.. jus sayin. great climb BUT 5.10 max..


Minacanzon, you are such a bad-ass. I wish someday, I could be as cool as you...

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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Dec 17, 2011
Dow Williams, 2011
Her favorite climbs are Frogland and Group Therapy...and she leads 5.7 trad and follows 5.10c. And she likes to quote Lynn Hill. Typical awesome stuff for this forum.

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By Cultivating Mass
Dec 19, 2011
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Yeah, I took time this a.m. to see who this spraytard was; take a look at the personal page+check the Prince Of Darkness photo: sitting at the base, open beer, fake cigarette beside a pack of Camels, also beside trendy wooden hippy pot box, second beer visible behind backpack, and big ziplock bag full of REI brand hipster munchies.

It doesn't get more core than this, folks. Beering up at the base before getting power-dragged up the Sport Route of All Sport Routes on the West Coast.

A truly phenomenal effort at being a raging useless gamete dumpster.

Side note: as a Vegas resident, I've run into most of the locals at one point. The only person the pic looks like is someone I had to rescue on a 5.6 at the Brass Wall [edited cause I was being a dick]; I can't be sure this is the same person, but if it is, we're just talking classy on top of classy.

My only caveat is that I'm not SURE this is the same person. But the resemblance is striking...

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By Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Dec 19, 2011
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA I was working on - don't see that every day...
Killis Howard wrote:
Yeah, I took time this a.m. to see who this spraytard was; take a look at the personal page+check the Prince Of Darkness photo: sitting at the base, open beer, fake cigarette beside a pack of Camels, also beside trendy wooden hippy pot box, second beer visible behind backpack, and big ziplock bag full of REI brand hipster munchies. It doesn't get more core than this, folks. Beering up at the base before getting power-dragged up the Sport Route of All Sport Routes on the West Coast. A truly phenomenal effort at being a raging useless cunt. Side note: as a Vegas resident, I've run into most of the locals at one point. The only person the pic looks like is someone I had to rescue on a 5.6 at the Brass Wall while she was topless with a guy who was dating another female friend at the time(true story), who also happens to be somewhat infamous for getting booted out of Red Rock Climbing Center while drunk, high, pregnant, and loudly screaming at staff and owners. Did I mention wasted, dragged off forcibly by the cops, while pregnant? I can't be sure this is the same person, but if it is, we're just talking classy on top of classy. My only caveat is that I'm not SURE this is the same person. But the resemblance is striking...


All that because someone thinks a route is .10 and not .11?? And you're not even sure if it's the same person you think it is? A little harsh no?

Chill the fuck out Killis, it is the holiday season after all.

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By Cultivating Mass
Dec 19, 2011
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
No, all that because I'm not a fan of her Orange Clonus post and I wanted to see what else she'd been spewing. But you're right and I did edit out the worst, she may be annoying but I'm sure there's some feelings in there that my post could singe. Offensiveist part removed for ya, Glenn-it IS the festivus season, after all.

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By Minacanzon
From Las Vegas, nv
Apr 5, 2012
Bouldering @ Deadman's
hi dow and killis. haven't seen the fuss til today LOL

super fun that atomic indian, lots o good movement for being short. dow is correct that the underworld has the best splitters around st. george IMHO

seamus mcshane here. borrowing mina's comp. again. I have to apologize to her first. BTW that was my opinion 12/17/11 regarding atomic indian.. Having led it at least half a dozen times, I still believe that the climb does not warrant a 5.11 rating, only one tough move near the top. I should have noted that it was me, not mina.. and that it was IMHO

much apologies if I have offended anyone on MP as it seems to have touched a raw nerve with some.. it is ok for you to bash me anytime, anywhere you wish, please bash away..
but to bash mina, for whatever reason you may have, is your own issue.. good luck with that

just added about two years worth of climbing to mina's page, all backlogged from her various guidebooks, just gave up on guessing some dates at the end though as there were over 200 different climbs to add. just about everything on the list up to 5.9 mina has led.
hopefully that will validate her.. judge away.. those are my smokes in the pic BTW, n we don't feel the need to wait til we get back to the car for cold beer.. or whatever... my dubbage too BTW 8) so judge away if it makes you feel good. LOL

I'll be damned if I haven't climbed 200 days with her at RR alone and all of them FUN!!!
we do have some sick fun..
In the past 23 monthes, since mina started climbing...we have picked up no less than 2000 (cuz I have a running count) ciggie butts, tape wads and at least 50 shit bags from RR.
WTF people??? but judge away, our crag stewardship speaks for itself. dow n killis seem like good stewards as well. sorry if a beer constitutes breakfast for moi, my bad. tastes differ.hehehe

BTW the Lynn Hill quote WAS apropo cuz the anonymous perp was an absolutely birddoggingly obnoxious parrot on the day in question (she knows who she is). when someone is cruxing at their limit, and about to fall, is that an appropriate time to "volunteer" beta.? Said "betamax"woman having admitted to never leading the route herself..hehehe. almost had to intervene myself as the belayer.hehehe

judge away thanks for listening to the rant. and like I wrote earlier sorry to offend you killis and dow.. maybe a beer after climbing someday?? cheers seamus

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