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 ADVANCED
Down Under
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adventures with Kate & Enoch T 
Ball of Confusion T,TR 
Beast From The East, The TR 
Blocks T,TR 
Bruce 
Cape Ann Fingerbang TR 
Charging Rhino 
Chippas Crack TR 
Cloak and Dagger 
Corner Crack TR 
Crippler TR 
Doug's Nose 
Doug's Roof 
Down Over S 
Down Under S,TR 
Eric's Route T,S,TR 
Flaming Galah 
Least Of The Deceased, The TR 
Left Arete Project TR 
No Pro T,TR 
Premature Escalation 
Right Arete Project 
Second Pitch Face TR 
Sleek Streek TR 
Splitter T,TR 
Tony the Tiger T,TR 
Vegamite 
Unsorted Routes:

Splitter 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: N/A
Page Views: 1,079
Submitted By: Chris McNeil on Nov 29, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Ball of Confusion/Down Under face.

Description 

Follow the obvious crack that goes straight up the bottom face to the ledge. At the bottom of the top face, continue up a crack transfering to another crack to top out. The switch over is the crux of the climb and is a little tricky to protect.

Location 

This route is at "Down Under" a hidden gem of Redrocks. Follow the pipeline from the storage units to Oz, but when you see Oz off the trail on your left, look up to the right for a wooden treestand. Go straight into the woods from the tree stand, follow the rock face until you see something tasty to climb.

Protection 

Nuts, cams, slings. TR anchors on top of the "Second Pitch Face" center and far right end.


Photos of Splitter Slideshow Add Photo
Straight up the obvious crack with solid finger locks and toes jams to the ledge. Follow the crack mid way up the upper face and transfer to another crack to top out.
BETA PHOTO: Straight up the obvious crack with solid finger lo...
Ball of Confusion. Fun crack with a tricky, split crack topout.
Ball of Confusion. Fun crack with a tricky, split ...
Top rope can be set up at the very top on a solid tree.
BETA PHOTO: Top rope can be set up at the very top on a solid ...

Comments on Splitter Add Comment
Show which comments
By HBTHREE
From: ma
Dec 4, 2011

This is that crack left of Doug's Roof isn't it, up the hill a little? There are a few lines here, used to be some bolts on the slabs. Needs a cleaning, but I remember 5 or so lines I'd do to make the roof trek worth it. Might have been in the "Boston Rolls" book with a different name and grade.
By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Dec 11, 2011

Yes, there are probably close to a dozen climbs at 'Down Under' that are currently being cleaned. Really amazing variations on the "first pitch" and great crack and slab lines on the "second pitch". No bolts though, the only ones there are NOT user friendly.
By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Dec 15, 2011

Hey Chris, good to see someone is active with their scrubby reclaiming some nice Cape Ann granite. Would like to meet up and put some work in myself. Have lots of free time, so let me know...,.
By Corey Baker
Dec 15, 2011

Chris and I have spent some time down there trying to reclaim some new climbing in the Cape Ann scene, ...so much cleaning left to do so grab a brush and clean a new line.
By mnatti
Dec 16, 2011

"New line" is always up for debate with the likes of Herb Stillman running around. I'm pretty sure the man has climbed every piece of granite in Cape Ann (barefoot, with no rope and no cleaning!). If nothing else, he knows someone who HAS climbed it. That being said... get out and scrub. Name lines (be willing to change them IF they already have a name), and let's keep the Cape Ann renaissance alive! I'll be showing up Down Under with some TR anchors sooner than later.
By Corey Baker
Dec 16, 2011

This is a true statment, but it's new climbing for a lot of us and it is fun to open it back up for all. And yes some TR anchors would be ideal. Don't exactly trust the few aged looking bolts there now. Let Chris and I know when you are heading out, you know where to find us.
By mnatti
Dec 28, 2011

Okay... so Herb says this line is called "Splitter." Ball's of Confusion is the wide crack just right of "No Pro" (which you got the name right on). I'm going to try to get Herb down there for a full walk around in the next few days. I'll need a tape recorder for sure!
By Eric Dearing
Jul 25, 2012

A nice line with great jams and moderate for the grade...like most of the routes here, you wish it lasted longer.