Follow the obvious crack that goes straight up the bottom face to the ledge. At the bottom of the top face, continue up a crack transfering to another crack to top out. The switch over is the crux of the climb and is a little tricky to protect.
This route is at "Down Under" a hidden gem of Redrocks. Follow the pipeline from the storage units to Oz, but when you see Oz off the trail on your left, look up to the right for a wooden treestand. Go straight into the woods from the tree stand, follow the rock face until you see something tasty to climb.
Nuts, cams, slings. TR anchors on top of the "Second Pitch Face" center and far right end.
This is that crack left of Doug's Roof isn't it, up the hill a little? There are a few lines here, used to be some bolts on the slabs. Needs a cleaning, but I remember 5 or so lines I'd do to make the roof trek worth it. Might have been in the "Boston Rolls" book with a different name and grade.
Yes, there are probably close to a dozen climbs at 'Down Under' that are currently being cleaned. Really amazing variations on the "first pitch" and great crack and slab lines on the "second pitch". No bolts though, the only ones there are NOT user friendly.
"New line" is always up for debate with the likes of Herb Stillman running around. I'm pretty sure the man has climbed every piece of granite in Cape Ann (barefoot, with no rope and no cleaning!). If nothing else, he knows someone who HAS climbed it. That being said... get out and scrub. Name lines (be willing to change them IF they already have a name), and let's keep the Cape Ann renaissance alive! I'll be showing up Down Under with some TR anchors sooner than later.
This is a true statment, but it's new climbing for a lot of us and it is fun to open it back up for all. And yes some TR anchors would be ideal. Don't exactly trust the few aged looking bolts there now. Let Chris and I know when you are heading out, you know where to find us.
Okay... so Herb says this line is called "Splitter." Ball's of Confusion is the wide crack just right of "No Pro" (which you got the name right on). I'm going to try to get Herb down there for a full walk around in the next few days. I'll need a tape recorder for sure!