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Animal World
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Instinct 
Animal Magnetism 
Animal Riots Activist 
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance 
Automatic Choke 
Balance, The 
Beast Food Left 
Beast Food Right 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head 
Blockhead 
Cannabis Sportiva 
Closer To God 
Cold Snap 
Crack Corner 
Cujo Tranquilizer 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed 
Evolution Revolution 
Familiar Strangers 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) 
Fifth World, The 
Free Willie 
Global Gorilla 
Gull Whackers 
Hands of Destiny 
Hope and Pray 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe 
Isn't Life Strange 
Joint Venture 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello 
Lazy Day 
Lovely to See You 
Melancholy Man 
New Beginnings 
Nice To Be Here 
Old Dihedral 
Piles of Trials 
Pit Bull Prowser 
Reversal Roof 
Ride My See-saw 
Split Personality 
Strange Times 
Sundog 
Talking Out Of Turn 
Threshold Of A Dream 
Triple Play 
Tuesday Afternoon 
Unfamiliar Strangers 
We Don't Do Crack 
Wine and Roses 

Split Personality 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Paul Pomeroy, Jake Miller, Chris Taylor
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 686
Submitted By: paul pomeroy on Apr 23, 2012
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Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start as for Isn't Life Strange at central Animal World. Clip the first bolt on that route, then lean left and clip a bolt at the base of the clean face. Trend up and right following a thin seam past two more bolts to a small overlap. Clip a bolt above this feature and step left (crux for all but the very tall), then go up the beautiful orange face to a double buttonhead station. Clip these with two long slings and head straight up through a large roof, left to a stance, then up through two smaller overhangs to the anchors on Talking Out of Turn.


Location 

Split Personality is located on the central Animal World Buttress between Talking Out of Turn to the left and Isn't Life Strange to the right. This route is best approached by hiking almost all the way to Animal World right, then doubling back and up on a faint trail to a large ledge at the base of the route.


Protection 

11 QDs (including two longer slings) plus two for the anchor.



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By ChanVan
Aug 6, 2012

I am not trying to be a hater here, but this route is more or less a contrived, squeeze job - at least the bottom half. Not stepping over onto ILS takes almost as much effort as the 5.12 moves themselves! The upper section is pretty cool, although there too you kind of have to force yourself not to bail onto the neighboring 10a to the left. Seems like it could have been done as a variation finish to one of the neighboring routes rather than adding a whole new line of bolts. Just sayin'.

By MattL
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 14, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

Excellent addition to the crag! Yes, it might share a hold or two with ILS, but for most part it is an independent line with classic movement. It has a little bit of everything - thin technical slabbing, thuggy roof climbing, and a slopey finishing crux. Well done!