Split Personality 5.12
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | Paul Pomeroy, Jake Miller, Chris Taylor |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | paul pomeroy on Apr 23, 2012 |
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Description Start as for Isn't Life Strange at central Animal World. Clip the first bolt on that route, then lean left and clip a bolt at the base of the clean face. Trend up and right following a thin seam past two more bolts to a small overlap. Clip a bolt above this feature and step left (crux for all but the very tall), then go up the beautiful orange face to a double buttonhead station. Clip these with two long slings and head straight up through a large roof, left to a stance, then up through two smaller overhangs to the anchors on Talking Out of Turn.
Location Split Personality is located on the central Animal World Buttress between Talking Out of Turn to the left and Isn't Life Strange to the right. This route is best approached by hiking almost all the way to Animal World right, then doubling back and up on a faint trail to a large ledge at the base of the route.
Protection 11 QDs (including two longer slings) plus two for the anchor.
| Comments on Split Personality |
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By CHRIS.T
From: Longmont, Co.
Apr 26, 2012
| Awesome route! Big thanks to Paul! He did all the hard work on this one.
A 70 meter rope allows you to belay from (and lower to) the comfortable ledge with the large dead tree. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE. |
By ChanVan
Aug 6, 2012
| I am not trying to be a hater here, but this route is more or less a contrived, squeeze job - at least the bottom half. Not stepping over onto ILS takes almost as much effort as the 5.12 moves themselves! The upper section is pretty cool, although there too you kind of have to force yourself not to bail onto the neighboring 10a to the left. Seems like it could have been done as a variation finish to one of the neighboring routes rather than adding a whole new line of bolts. Just sayin'. |
By MattL
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 14, 2012
rating: 5.12
| Excellent addition to the crag! Yes, it might share a hold or two with ILS, but for most part it is an independent line with classic movement. It has a little bit of everything - thin technical slabbing, thuggy roof climbing, and a slopey finishing crux. Well done! |
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