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Beckey's Wall Area
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"Elementary My Dear Watson" 
3rd Crack Over 
Axis of Evil Arete 
Beckey's Wall 
Cheetah 
Date with Fate 
Fingertrip Variation 
Hesitate No More 
Hesitation 
Needle's Eye Variation 
Orange Sling, The 
Pebbles and Bambam 
Shaken Climber Syndrome 
Split Decision 
Split Fingers 
Split Pants 
Sweet Jane Variation 
Tarzan 
Tingey's Direct 
Tingey's Terror 
Tingey's Torture 

Split Pants 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dick Ream, Rich Ream, Court Richards 1962
Page Views: 809
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 15, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

An interesting route to say the least.

P1. Start in the chimney/squeeze right of Beckey's and left of Cheetah. Climb up this and continue to thrash your way through the trees, and broken climbing. You can stop at the slung tree or continue on pitch 2 as one long pitch.

P2. Continue up the gully/crack system occasionally finding some good moves, otherwise it is the same tree thrash/gully romp as the first pitch. Stop at the next slung tree.

P3. Continue up the crack system (drool as you look at Needle's Eye Variation (my next trip up I will climb this)), and start angling right to get to the roof. Undercling the roof all the way right until you can clip a piton around the corner, make a delicate step around and belay at the tree.

First two pitches are not all that special, but the last pitch was really fun, albeit with griity rock.

The book rates this a 5.6. If I compared this traverse to Perhaps, this was distinctly harder. (My two cents) I felt 5.8 was more accurate.


Location 

Chimney/gully between Cheetah and Baloney on White/Beckey's Wall.


Protection 

Slings for trees, runners for rope drag, standard rack. There are 5 pitons on the last pitch.



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