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Split Infinitive 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: morning shade, afternnon
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
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Joe on "Split Infinitive".

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Description 

This route is easier, but headier than its neighbor and is not the better warm-up. Climb crimps and slopers up the right-most of the bolted lines to reach an anchor. There are some distances between bolts that can be mitigated with gear, but not great gear.
A poor choice for a beginner lead, if you have that in mind.


Location 

This route is the right-most of the bolted routs to the left of Nevada Book and to the right of Split crack. This and 'Split Ends' both start from the top of a rounded ledge and near a nasty bush or two. Access their bases by fighting past a boulder in a funky gully below Nevada Book.


Protection 

A handful of draws and a bad gear placement or two, maybe larger RP's in shallow cracks? I distinctly recall my partner laughing at my 1/2 buried brass HB micromate (a .33" cam) with 2 lobes in.



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