BETA PHOTO: Split Decision (29) and Indecision (28)
Split Decision is a nice climb below the Devil's Doorway formation. Climb the lower section of slabby rock using small holds. The crux is about halfway up where the rock becomes more blank. Finish up the climb by passing through a challening notch and continue to the top.
Top Rope set up is found on the south side of the Devil's Doorway. To get to the base of the climb from the TR setup hike east along lower Devil's Doorway Trail, go up short set of steps just north of The Crypt (route 18). Once above steps turn right (east) and descend gully between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Descend the gully about 20 yards and then turn right and climb through a saddle (4th class). Once through the saddle you'll be on the "upper-band ledge", a nice wide ledge used to access the upper band of the Major Mass (in Swartling's book this ledge is located above the area labeled "Angel's Traverse"). Hike west along the ledge about 150 feet until you're directly below the Devil's Doorway (you'll see it about 50 feet above you). Split Decision is on the wall you're facing, just right of the outside corner.
Split Decision would make a good lead climb if it wasn't for the poorly protected upper section through the little corner off the ledge at 3/4 height. Sketchy pro, lurking ledge, and under-rated move into the small corner off the platform makes it a serious proposition for a lead.
By Tradoholic Jul 25, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a R
Sketchy moves indeed! The mantle was barely protected with some micro gear. The upper crux is a total sandbag but I found a nice Yellow C3 placement. The upper part has got to be 5.9. It took us 20 minutes to figure it out.
There's a wasps nest in the horizontal after the mantle, I was stung today. I plan to go back and give them a world of pain. You can avoid the mantle by traversing left.
By Tradoholic Aug 5, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a R
The yellow C3 is probably questionable to hold a fall, hence an "R" rating. Even if it held, on the crux move a fall would put you on the ledge anyway.