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Split Beaver
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Split Beaver 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nick Taylor, Peter Peart, 1975
Page Views: 2,341
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 23, 2007

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Not too many people can finish Split Beaver on fis...
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pull over an initial bulge and start jamming up a gently but continuously overhanging and continuously widening crack. As it widens the usual difficulties transitioning from hands to fists are encountered, but it's when the fists get rattly that you earn it.

Apparently it can be done with fists only if you have very big hands. I needed two fist and palm stacks to finish it.

Once you're through the widest part there's a ledge with an anchor, or you can continue up another 20 ft of easier climbing to another anchor.

Mike Hengeveld used to have a good write-up and pictures of climbing this route, but his website seems to be off the air now. UPDATE: it's still around, just at a different address


Location 

Once you're at the crag, there is no mistaking which climb is Split Beaver.


Protection 

This crack will take one or two every size of cam from .75" to 5" but it's not so long that doubles are warranted. You can gauge it from the bottom. Bolted rap anchor.



Photos of Split Beaver Slideshow Add Photo
Michele from Canmore on Split Beaver near the top.
Michele from Canmore on Split Beaver near the top.
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin higher up on Split Beaver
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin higher up on Split...
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin starts up Split Beaver
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin starts up Split Be...
Near the top.
Near the top.
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin  on his way up Split Beaver
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin on his way up Spl...
Aaron on Split Beaver
Aaron on Split Beaver
Bring plenty of large cams!
Bring plenty of large cams!
Comments on Split Beaver Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 27, 2012

By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Managed this one after falling near the top on my first try. Great route with plenty of spots to rest and only a short section larger than fists to throw you off. Great for working on your fist jams and hand stacks.

Perfect rack to sew it up in camalots = 1x 0.75 (green) (for the first section after the boulder start), 1x 2 (yellow), 2x 3 (blue), 2x 4 (grey), 1x 5 (purple)

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Aug 11, 2013

A 4.5 Camalot works very well for the top section. Probably better than a #5, but I can't say as I didn't use one.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 16, 2013

Super fun battle. My rack: green c3 for the boulder move, #1, #0.75, 2x#2, #3, #3.5, 2x#4, 1x#5. Sews it up.. though I did slide the #5 up for the last move.

By Alex Charmoz
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The crux is hard