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 ADVANCED
Spire five
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Beethoven's Fifth T 
Kampsite T 
Splinter direct T 

Splinter direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Christian baird
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: Christian B. Baird on Aug 21, 2007

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Description 

The conns called this the spire splinter then Bob Kamps put a route on
it and is now known as kampsite.
This Splitter crack route faces the picket fence
Crux is in a slightly overhanging dihedral
above easy chimney/traverse. After crux dihedral go up the notch and right to a sweet belay ledge between a false summit of 5 and kampsite. Good pro and a fun route

Location 

This route starts top of the 5-6 gully.
When at the bottom of the 5-6 gully look up to see a yellow steep blade separated from five formation this is kampsite. A chokestone high in this notch is your goal but from north east side or top of gully. Scramble up easy trough to base of kampsite.
Start, is a mutitude of low angle rock we climbed via a chimney
this is a distinct overhanging dihedral crack between Kampsite and spire five on uphill side. Climb dihedral to chokestone, up and right over small spire to the sweet belay. Bring at least ten feet of sling and rap off this false summit block between kampsite and five.
One 60m rope got us to the ground.

Protection 

#.5 to 3 cam, small and medium sized nuts
no fixed gear, no anchor.


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