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Trundle Wall
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Splinted and Screwed T 
Top Flite T 

Splinted and Screwed 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Lawry, Lee Brinckerhoff, Kevin Conner, Chris Gustafson
New Route: Yes
Season: March-October
Page Views: 1,071
Submitted By: MattL on Aug 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Catching a quick breather right before the crux be...

Description 

P1: Climb through incut edges and sidepulls past a bolt and gear placement (small), then ascend the slightly overhanging wall. Big holds and bad feet characterize the crux around the third bolt (5.10+), followed by more jugs and a mantle to the belay ledge. Two bolt belay.

P2: Cruise through the slab portion of the dihedral past gear and two bolts to a hands free rest before the overhanging corner. Stem and layback through the increasingly difficult dihedral while paying attention to subtle gear opportunities. When the crack peters out, clip a bolt out left and find your way through sequential incut crimps and sidepulls (5.12a). Watch out for the pump-factor as you climb the last 10 feet through slopers and a final mantle guarding the belay ledge. Bolt and gear belay.

P3: After an initial struggle, float through the right facing corner which gobbles up gear. Progress through an acute dihedral with a thin seam requiring micronuts (DMM Offset Brassies worked very well). Clip a pin, then ascend the overhanging and well featured headwall. Be alert of loose rock - quality of rock is not quite as exceptional as the first two pitches. Amidst plugging gear and clipping bolts, save some juice for the final throws to the summit (5.11).


Location 

From the crest hike down the La Luz and take the trail headed towards the Tram. After passing Echo Canyon the trail will make a distinct turn from South to East. Continue beyond this turn for another 100 feet, then head south along a game trail to gain access to the top of Trundle wall. Two options are available to gain access to the top of SAS or TF *follow cairns down a steep hill 100 yards northeast of the ridgeline prow and traverse across ledges to the south, or rappel off the prow of the ridgeline directly above the route via a two bolt rappel (30 meters). Because of fragile soil and dubious path-finding, the rappel is recommended.

Once on the broad ledge above the actual route, rappel off the anchors with mad rock hangers. Make sure to knot the ends, with a 70m rope you will have but a few feet to spare at the bottom of the first rappel! On the second rappel, pre-clipping a 24 inch sling on the first bolt you encounter is recommended.
-SAS is 25 feet or so northeast of TF


Protection 

Single set of cams from 0.3 to 2 inches, doubles up to 0.75 inches. Single set of nuts, and a good selection of micronuts. Offset nuts and micronuts are recommended. Draws, 70 meter rope required if rapping in.



Photos of Splinted and Screwed Slideshow Add Photo
MattL taking a nice rest at the midpoint of the crux pitch where the corner transitions from slabby to overhanging.
MattL taking a nice rest at the midpoint of the cr...
Happy Father's Day
Happy Father's Day
Route Topo
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo
This route's name comes from a 2010 father's day father-son climbing incident :)
This route's name comes from a 2010 father's day f...
MattL working up progressively steeper terrain in the corner.
MattL working up progressively steeper terrain in ...
Looking up at the curving corner of the second pitch with MattL working on the top bit.
Looking up at the curving corner of the second pit...
MattL cruxing at the top bolt on the second pitch.
MattL cruxing at the top bolt on the second pitch.
Comments on Splinted and Screwed Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 14, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

First pitch is 3 stars, second pitch is 4 and the third is probably only 2.

Now you can get a pretty nice pretty full day of climbing by doing both routes on the wall.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 19, 2010

Lee/Matt,

Looks sweet!

Great present for your Dad!

Nice job.


Jeremy Aslaksen

By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Very nice new route with cruxes at the ends of the pitches. Psychical and steep climbing with awesome big fat flat belay ledges. Feels about the same grade as top flight but with a better warm up pitch. Well done!

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 4, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

With one 60m rope, it worked nicely to approach this climb by rapping down "Top Flite". With a 70m, rap "S&S", since the bolted anchors are better on "S&S".

By Haj
From: Santa Fe, NM
May 8, 2013

Pitch 1 ... fun and well protected. The gear on Pitch 2 was dicey! IMHO .... another bolt on this pitch would have made it much more fun and consistant in style with the rest of the route. Pitch 3 was my personal favorite .... varied, quality climbing on steep terrain.

All in all ... great route! Thanks for putting it up!

By Aaron Miller
May 15, 2013

Fun route. Enjoyed second pitch. Crux bolt is a little reachy for me, would be quite harder for shorter people.

Rapping down S&S requires one to leave gear at the top of first belay. Only one bolt here. Plenty of gear options though. Leave something big, you wont need much for the first pitch. In fact, leave all your big gear here.