Splinted and Screwed
|887 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.12a [details]|
|FA: ||Matt Lawry, Lee Brinckerhoff, Kevin Conner, Chris Gustafson|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||MattL on Aug 13, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo
P1: Climb through incut edges and sidepulls past a bolt and gear placement (small), then ascend the slightly overhanging wall. Big holds and bad feet characterize the crux around the third bolt (5.10+), followed by more jugs and a mantle to the belay ledge. Two bolt belay.
P2: Cruise through the slab portion of the dihedral past gear and two bolts to a hands free rest before the overhanging corner. Stem and layback through the increasingly difficult dihedral while paying attention to subtle gear opportunities. When the crack peters out, clip a bolt out left and find your way through sequential incut crimps and sidepulls (5.12a). Watch out for the pump-factor as you climb the last 10 feet through slopers and a final mantle guarding the belay ledge. Bolt and gear belay.
P3: After an initial struggle, float through the right facing corner which gobbles up gear. Progress through an acute dihedral with a thin seam requiring micronuts (DMM Offset Brassies worked very well). Clip a pin, then ascend the overhanging and well featured headwall. Be alert of loose rock - quality of rock is not quite as exceptional as the first two pitches. Amidst plugging gear and clipping bolts, save some juice for the final throws to the summit (5.11).
From the crest hike down the La Luz and take the trail headed towards the Tram. After passing Echo Canyon the trail will make a distinct turn from South to East. Continue beyond this turn for another 100 feet, then head south along a game trail to gain access to the top of Trundle wall. Two options are available to gain access to the top of SAS or TF *follow cairns down a steep hill 100 yards northeast of the ridgeline prow and traverse across ledges to the south, or rappel off the prow of the ridgeline directly above the route via a two bolt rappel (30 meters). Because of fragile soil and dubious path-finding, the rappel is recommended.
Once on the broad ledge above the actual route, rappel off the anchors with mad rock hangers. Make sure to knot the ends, with a 70m rope you will have but a few feet to spare at the bottom of the first rappel! On the second rappel, pre-clipping a 24 inch sling on the first bolt you encounter is recommended.
-SAS is 25 feet or so northeast of TF
Single set of cams from 0.3 to 2 inches, doubles up to 0.75 inches. Single set of nuts, and a good selection of micronuts. Offset nuts and micronuts are recommended. Draws, 70 meter rope required if rapping in.
Happy Father's Day
This route's name comes from a 2010 father's day f...
Looking up at the curving corner of the second pit...
MattL taking a nice rest at the midpoint of the cr...
MattL working up progressively steeper terrain in ...
Catching a quick breather right before the crux be...
MattL cruxing at the top bolt on the second pitch.
|Comments on Splinted and Screwed
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 14, 2010
First pitch is 3 stars, second pitch is 4 and the third is probably only 2.
Now you can get a pretty nice pretty full day of climbing by doing both routes on the wall.
|By Jeremy Aslaksen|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 19, 2010
Great present for your Dad!
|By John Kear|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 10, 2010
Very nice new route with cruxes at the ends of the pitches. Psychical and steep climbing with awesome big fat flat belay ledges. Feels about the same grade as top flight but with a better warm up pitch. Well done!
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 4, 2013
With one 60m rope, it worked nicely to approach this climb by rapping down "Top Flite". With a 70m, rap "S&S", since the bolted anchors are better on "S&S".
May 8, 2013
Pitch 1 ... fun and well protected. The gear on Pitch 2 was dicey! IMHO .... another bolt on this pitch would have made it much more fun and consistant in style with the rest of the route. Pitch 3 was my personal favorite .... varied, quality climbing on steep terrain.
All in all ... great route! Thanks for putting it up!
|By Aaron Miller|
4 days ago
Fun route. Enjoyed second pitch. Crux bolt is a little reachy for me, would be quite harder for shorter people.
Rapping down S&S requires one to leave gear at the top of first belay. Only one bolt here. Plenty of gear options though. Leave something big, you wont need much for the first pitch. In fact, leave all your big gear here.