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d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Splashtic 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Ants Leemets, 1966
Page Views: 916
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006

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This is the start of Splashtic, which is a little ...

Description 

The route gets its name from what a fall on pitch 2 would sound/feel like. The first pitch is worth doing at least once, but there is a very height-related move at the crux.

P1: Start 40' left of Strictly From Nowhere. There is an attractive-looking short face to the left of a shallow right-facing corner. Climb this face using small cams in horizontals for gear. There is a very reachy move at the top, before you pull onto the slab. Follow the slab (5.9-) up and right to a sling anchor (replaced 5/2011) in a hollow flake. 5.10a, 70'.

Rappel from here, or continue...

P2: Climb the corner, then angle up right to a white face and corner. Step up the corner to get high pro, then downclimb and traverse right around the arete (crux) onto a face and belay below an overhang. 5.9R, 70'.

P3: Angle up right and climb a notch through an overhang to the GT Ledge. 5.7, 60'.


Protection 

Standard Rack, extra small cams.


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By Gunkiemike
May 19, 2010

The P1 crux isn't necessarily height-sensitive...if you "know the trick".
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 20, 2012

P1 is not r-rated. It's a nice short pitch, one move wonder. It was my first 10 lead at the gunks. Also, it's not height dependent. I am only 62" and I made it just fine.
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Nov 13, 2013

I found no fixed anchor after p1 -- ended up just going to GT ledge and rapping down over Strictly.
By SethG
Nov 14, 2013

Dan, I did that first pitch in 2012. The threaded anchor mentioned in the guidebook is indeed gone, but there was a different anchor, I think on a tree, just a little bit left in a shallow corner/gully. My partner had used it before and clued me in to look for it-- I hadn't noticed this anchor just a few weeks before when I did Gaston, and so I had continued to the top of the cliff on Gaston when I never found the anchor.

So take this with a grain of salt, this info is from last year, but there was an anchor there at that time if you looked around.