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The North Gym
Routes Sorted
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"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
Logan's Run S 
Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

Spitting Image 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Prep: ?, FFA Mark Anderson, 18 Nov. '11?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,148
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2011

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The arete.

Description 

This all-time classic has no peers at Shelf Road. The authentic arete climb--complete with pinches, arete slaps, and fancy footwork--is hands-down the best of its genre at Shelf, and would be highly regarded at the prow paradise of Smith Rock.

Make a few tricky moves to get established above the undercut start, then make a precise stab to a small pocket. Crank an unlikely boulder problem past a series of sidepulls to gain a great rest on the arete and an easy clip. High steps and left hand slaps work past a cool mono and a precarious clip at the fourth bolt. An off-balance move leads to the crook of the intimidating roof and the crux; a powerful rockover from a shallow mail slot to gain the slab. A few more tenuous moves guard the anchor.

Location 

This is on the left side of "The Cirque", which is an elevated amphitheatre about 50 yards north of the Teenage Prostitute area. A 10' fourth class scramble is required to access The Cirque.

Protection 

5 bolts to 2BA.


Photos of Spitting Image Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling around the roof on Spitting Image. <br /> <br />Photo  Ryan Day Thompson, 2012 | <a href='http://www.ryandaythompson.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >ryandaythompson.com</a>.
Pulling around the roof on Spitting Image.

Photo ...
Eyeing a nice mono on "Spitting Image".
Eyeing a nice mono on "Spitting Image".
Precarious rest on the edge.
Precarious rest on the edge.

Comments on Spitting Image Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 21, 2011

I did not prep this line. There was a faded piece of cord tied to the first bolt, so I assume my ascent is the first. If not, please correct me. Whoever bolted this line had a great vision; it's one of the best routes I've done at Shelf.

"Red" Tag?
"Red" Tag?


Considering the state of the cord, I figured the route was fair game.
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 13, 2011

This route is absolutely brilliant! If you want a completely unique and outstanding climbing experience, try this route.