Spitting Image  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Prep: ?, FFA Mark Anderson, 18 Nov. '11? New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Pulling around the roof on Spitting Image.

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Description 

This all-time classic has no peers at Shelf Road. The authentic arete climb--complete with pinches, arete slaps, and fancy footwork--is hands-down the best of its genre at Shelf, and would be highly regarded at the prow paradise of Smith Rock.

Make a few tricky moves to get established above the undercut start, then make a precise stab to a small pocket. Crank an unlikely boulder problem past a series of sidepulls to gain a great rest on the arete and an easy clip. High steps and left hand slaps work past a cool mono and a precarious clip at the fourth bolt. An off-balance move leads to the crook of the intimidating roof and the crux; a powerful rockover from a shallow mail slot to gain the slab. A few more tenuous moves guard the anchor.

Location 

This is on the left side of "The Cirque", which is an elevated amphitheatre about 50 yards north of the Teenage Prostitute area. A 10' fourth class scramble is required to access The Cirque.

Protection 

5 bolts to 2BA.

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Eyeing a nice mono on "Spitting Image".	The arete.	Precarious rest on the edge.

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By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Nov 21, 2011

I did not prep this line. There was a faded piece of cord tied to the first bolt, so I assume my ascent is the first. If not, please correct me. Whoever bolted this line had a great vision; it's one of the best routes I've done at Shelf. "Red" Tag? Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2011 Considering the state of the cord, I figured the route was fair game.

By Mike Anderson From: Dayton, OH Dec 13, 2011

This route is absolutely brilliant! If you want a completely unique and outstanding climbing experience, try this route.