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Routes in The North Gym
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"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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[Redacted] S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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[Redacted] S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Prep: ?, FFA Mark Anderson, 18 Nov. '11? |
| Page Views: | 3,211 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This all-time classic has no peers at Shelf Road. The authentic arete climb--complete with pinches, arete slaps, and fancy footwork--is hands-down the best of its genre at Shelf, and would be highly regarded at the prow paradise of Smith Rock.
Make a few tricky moves to get established above the undercut start, then make a precise stab to a small pocket. Crank an unlikely boulder problem past a series of sidepulls to gain a great rest on the arete and an easy clip. High steps and left hand slaps work past a cool mono and a precarious clip at the fourth bolt. An off-balance move leads to the crook of the intimidating roof and the crux; a powerful rockover from a shallow mail slot to gain the slab. A few more tenuous moves guard the anchor.
Make a few tricky moves to get established above the undercut start, then make a precise stab to a small pocket. Crank an unlikely boulder problem past a series of sidepulls to gain a great rest on the arete and an easy clip. High steps and left hand slaps work past a cool mono and a precarious clip at the fourth bolt. An off-balance move leads to the crook of the intimidating roof and the crux; a powerful rockover from a shallow mail slot to gain the slab. A few more tenuous moves guard the anchor.
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