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Spitting Image 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Prep: ?, FFA Mark Anderson, 18 Nov. '11?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,322
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2011

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The arete.


This all-time classic has no peers at Shelf Road. The authentic arete climb--complete with pinches, arete slaps, and fancy footwork--is hands-down the best of its genre at Shelf, and would be highly regarded at the prow paradise of Smith Rock.

Make a few tricky moves to get established above the undercut start, then make a precise stab to a small pocket. Crank an unlikely boulder problem past a series of sidepulls to gain a great rest on the arete and an easy clip. High steps and left hand slaps work past a cool mono and a precarious clip at the fourth bolt. An off-balance move leads to the crook of the intimidating roof and the crux; a powerful rockover from a shallow mail slot to gain the slab. A few more tenuous moves guard the anchor.


This is on the left side of "The Cirque", which is an elevated amphitheatre about 50 yards north of the Teenage Prostitute area. A 10' fourth class scramble is required to access The Cirque.


5 bolts to 2BA.

Photos of Spitting Image Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling around the roof on Spitting Image.  Photo ...
Pulling around the roof on Spitting Image. Photo ...
Eyeing a nice mono on "Spitting Image".
Eyeing a nice mono on "Spitting Image".
Precarious rest on the edge.
Precarious rest on the edge.

Comments on Spitting Image Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 21, 2011

I did not prep this line. There was a faded piece of cord tied to the first bolt, so I assume my ascent is the first. If not, please correct me. Whoever bolted this line had a great vision; it's one of the best routes I've done at Shelf.

"Red" Tag?
"Red" Tag?

Considering the state of the cord, I figured the route was fair game.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 13, 2011

This route is absolutely brilliant! If you want a completely unique and outstanding climbing experience, try this route.
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