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What are you on? 

Spite and Malice 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: D. Singer, D. Miller
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 2,007
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 18, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Nick Rhoads on Spite and Malice.

Description 

Spite and Malice has everything a route needs to be a classic. A heads up start on suspect rock leads you to an obtuse stem box. Work your way up the left finger crack until you can do a couple traverse moves (5.10) into the right hand finger crack. Keep moving up this crack as it grows ever steeper! Look for face hold relief, but be ready to jam your heart out... A great long pitch that delivers a full body workout.


Location 

Middle left wall.


Protection 

Doubles from #1 TCU through #4, triples of #.75 and #2 Camalots, runners.

70M rope



Photos of Spite and Malice Slideshow Add Photo
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switching cracks, the technical crux
switching cracks, the technical crux
pump clock running...
pump clock running...
closing in on the anchors, and the choss band....
closing in on the anchors, and the choss band....
Comments on Spite and Malice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 23, 2006

You mentioned this somewhere else, but just to reinforce it, 1 60m rope does NOT get you to the ground. You can still do this climb with 1 rope, but be careful and you'll have to downclimb the first 15 ft of the climb.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Bring extra #0.75 and #1 camalots. I had three number ones and wished I had one more. A safe bet would be double set from blue tcu through #2 camalots with three #0.75 and four #1.