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The Dunce Cap
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Dunce Cap, The T 
Spirited Away T 
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Spirited Away 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Randy Vogel, Vern Stiefel, 92
Page Views: 1,825
Submitted By: Randy on Mar 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Tom Murphy edging his way to the crux on the initi...

Description 

This route stands among the best in the entire Park. Bold, but adequately protected, the signature second pitch offers continuous climbing in a stellar position.

Begin near the center of the North Face (right of center in Beta Photo), at the foot of the base of the rock, on the left side of a large rectangular block (in sunlight in Beta Photo).

Pitch 1: Up cracks on the left side of the block to a very large flat ledge (5.8).
Pitch 2: Move up and left to a discontinuous seam/crack which is followed up past 2 bolts. Move up and right to a large flake, exiting this higher up to reach a 3rd bolt. Head right to eventually gain a narrow ledge system -- belay at the ledge's right end (11b).
Pitch 3: Up a finger crack to its end and head left and up to the summit (5.7+).


Location 

95 foot rap off the back of the formation. Head around the west side of the rock to return to the base.


Protection 

Bring a good variety of: thin brass, some stoppers, and thin cams to 2 inches.



Photos of Spirited Away Slideshow Add Photo
Near the top of the second pitch, beginning the final cruxy traverse. Photo by Holden Harris.
Near the top of the second pitch, beginning the fi...
Spirited Away takes a bold line up the center of the impresive North Face of The Duncecap. The second pitch climbs cracks, face and the huge flake system just left of the obvious waterstreaks. Copyright 2003, Randy V.
BETA PHOTO: Spirited Away takes a bold line up the center of t...
Tom preparing to send the crux.
Tom preparing to send the crux.
Comments on Spirited Away Add Comment
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By Murf
Mar 28, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Many of the best climbs in JT are guarded by an arduous approach. These approaches dissuade those that haven't discovered that distance from the road isn't just an obstacle to overcome. The experience of true desert solitude, away from roads and their travelers is hidden out there.

Spirited Away integrates all the diverse qualities of Joshua Tree climbing into a coherent whole. The ability to edge, smear, jam, and the savvy to know when *not* to fall allow you to enjoy one of the best routes in the park. Days, weeks, many routes later, you’ll still be able to visualize key moves and stances.

You may never climb Spirited Away; it may be too difficult to reach, too hard, sound scary, or just be too easy for you to bother. Regardless of whether you ever do it, it or something like it should be on the tick list of true JT Locals. Locals who understand that aspiring to difficulty or numbers of ascents doesn't necessarily translate into a true appreciation of the Joshua Tree experience.

By Vernon Stiefel
Mar 29, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Aside from the exquisite position encountered on the second pitch, another appealing aspect is its sustained nature. "There aren't any annoyingly easy sections" was Randy's assessment after the FA.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 31, 2006

One question, 1992? The movie didn't come out until 2001!

By Randy
Mar 31, 2006

Unless the movie was named for the climb, it must be one of those serendipitous events of them having the same name.

By tony grice
May 11, 2006

It is a true J-TREE Experience, long fun hike to get to it.The description in the new book is perfect, the climbing was fun.Shade mid day.
There is a loose shitty flake that takes the only really good pro before the first bolt, it will blow off if you whip before the first bolt, why not another bolt?No one will call you a chicken, maybe just me for wanting it,It could use it. The route was great nice job!

By Randy
May 11, 2006

Tony, Actually, there are a several decent small pieces of gear that you can get before the 1st bolt (tcus, small brass, stoppers, etc.) [2008 Edit: see photo of 2nd pitch posted for location of pieces before 1st bolt]. We and everyone we know has avoided putting gear behind the black flake/small roof before the 1st bolt as it is probably not solid. Glad to see you did it.

By Randy
Dec 4, 2008

Recently repeated this route and found it to be as good as I remembered. It has been 2 years since we lost our dear friend Vern. He is still in our thoughts and sorely missed by his friends.