Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 5,801 ft
GPS: 45.95308, -112.28997
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 72,679 total · 555/month
Shared By: Aaron Bugh on Jun 18, 2013
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

Description Suggest change

Probably one of the most popular climbing areas near Butte and only about an hour an a half away from Bozeman, this area offers a wide variety of climbing options. Also commonly called Pipestone this are houses some multipitch on King, some good crack and offwidth climbing on Queen with some easy to set up top roping, and a good amount of bouldering starting to be established within a five minutes walk of the base of the Queen. Very short approaches and great climbing make this area decently popular.

Getting There Suggest change

Take the Pipestone exit #241 off of I-90 and follow the dirt road toward Delmo Lake. About four miles from the freeway it is easy to spot the King on the top of the hill. There is a large BLM parking lot with a restroom right before the turn to the climbs. Make a right that obviously heads toward the crag, and you can either park in a field on the right hand side of the road a short way in or follow the road up and left to a small parking lot that is practically at the base of the Queen.

47 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Spire Rock Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Spire Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Beginner's Lead
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Automatic Pilot
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
White Line
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Dream Weaver
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Aerial Book
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Frick
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
The Gobbler
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Doo Doo Man
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
 4
Super Squeeze
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 17
Frack
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
Cruise Control
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Out of Order
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Tormentor
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
The Royal We
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Dead Children's Glee Club
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beginner's Lead Queen (Southeast Corner)
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Automatic Pilot Queen (Southeast Corner)
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
White Line King (W Face)
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Dream Weaver Queen (N Face)
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Aerial Book King (W Face)
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Frick King (W Face)
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Gobbler Queen (N Face)
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Doo Doo Man King (W Face)
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Super Squeeze Queen (N Face)
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X Trad, TR
Frack King (W Face)
 17
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Cruise Control Queen (Southeast Corner)
 44
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Out of Order Queen (N Face)
 9
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Tormentor Queen (Southside)
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
The Royal We King (W Face)
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Dead Children's Glee Club Queen (Southside)
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Spire Rock »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading