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Spire One is the most west of the numbered spires. It has a very distinctive shape, and can be identified by its three blocks, each one progressively smaller as they get higher. The pitches on this generally leave belays at each block because they are great ledges. Bring two ropes for a rappel from a fixed anchor.
Follow trail #4 to the north from the Cathedral Spires parking lot. When the trail junctions before the spires, do not take the climber's trail off to the right, but rather, continue up the hill to the left of the spires. Go around the back side and locate the uniquely shaped 3-blocked spire. It is the closest large spire to the trail.
2 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spire One:
Spire One East Chimney 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Spire 1 Reppy Variation 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 215'
Featured Route For Spire One
Spire 1 Reppy Variation 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b SD : Custer State Park : ... : Spire One
Start on the North East corner following the crack system up right and then step left to a second crack system up and to a sloping ramp. Follow the ramp up and right to a third crack and a pin. A few moves up the crack and you are in the clear. Climb up the large bolts and chains and belay. This pitch can be a little wiggy (at least it was for me) but the pro is all there.The second pitch traverses 180 degrees around the spire to the right (facing the rock). Just follow the obvoius horrizonta...[more] Browse More Classics in SD