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Spiny Dogfish 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: craig smith, Tom Nonnis and Steve Potter
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is a fun route. If you have done Flying Hawaiian a bunch and you are looking to switch it up give it a burn. The variation does contain some really fun moves though it is absurd that it was bolted as an "independent" line before the error was corrected.

Climb the start of Flying Hawaiian till you are standing at the base of the big sweeping corner. Traverse right to the arete making a cruxy move to get established. Climb the arete using a couple holds on Tsunami (5.12c/d) then breaking back left to the rail near the top of the Flying H corner. Finish as for Flying H.


Location 

Climb the start of Flying Hawaiian to the base of the corner then traverse right to the arete. Climb the arete then move back to finish Flyin'.


Protection 

Top rope



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 25, 2011
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 22, 2011

When they bolted it, it actually started to the left of Flying and crossed over at the ledge (even more absurd). This is a very good TR variation though.

By Craig Smith
Jul 19, 2011

Hi,

I bolted it and climbed it. There was nothing absurd about it. It was just another route for people to enjoy. The self elected Rumney police..yes you know who you are, decided this route wasn't worthy...
Anyway, please credit me with the first ascent. Tom Nonnis and Steve Potter were also present.
Cheers,

Craig

By James Otey
From: NH
Jul 19, 2011

I don't want to fling too much poo, but keeping this as a bolted line would seem to be a really big no-no, and an epic contrived squeeze job.

It's quality can shine as a TR variation.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 19, 2011

Craig, i did put you and your friends down for the FA... I'm glad you still stand by your decision but i think if it was put to a vote rather than decided by "the Rumney police" the outcome would have been the same... people typically don't like bolt lines crossing classic routes... I do really like this as a TR thanks for finding the line!

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 19, 2011

If I remember correctly, it was in fact put to vote. Judging by the bolts put in on other lines, they would have had to have been pulled for safety reasons anyway (an easy thing when they slide out by hand covered by slurry or snap right off at the first tap of a hammer)..good climber and fun chap, but, man, your bolts sucked.

Cheers to you, Craig.

By Craig Smith
Jul 21, 2011

No worries guys. When I wrote the bit about 'the police' I was smiling ; )
As for the bolts, it was raining when I drilled, bolted and climbed the route so that might explain their quality. I'm happy it's at least kept it's name!

Come to visit England sometime.

All the best,

Craig

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 21, 2011

Actually, the bolts on Spiny may have been fine. The ones I am particularly taking the piss about were the ones on the flying arete project above and right of the first pitch of Black Mamba. Ward went up on lead and as he clipped some of them they pulled out, so he had to slide them back in and pray. Luckily, I was up top with a rope, so was able to tie it off and lower it down as an anchor. That is why he ended up calling it British Airways. I think the holes had just not been cleaned out, so rain water made a slurry. There are nice glue-ins now.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 21, 2011

By the way, this guy Craig was known for having the finest tights collection in all of Boston at the time. I think he must have checked out all the band costume stores to find them. I was like, damn, where does he get all those colors?

By S. Neoh
Jul 21, 2011

Oh, yes, Craig and his collection of climbing tights. He may well have brought some over from England, old chap. Craig and Mick made quite a splash ....

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 22, 2011

The English have quite a history of fine hosiery wearing, if you look back at the historical paintings.

By Craig Smith
Jul 22, 2011

British Airways wasn't my doing, that was Mick Ryan! So I guess my bolts were not too bad?

For a lyrca fix see:

www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=154738

Cheers,

Craig

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 22, 2011

Ooops! my bad. Apologies.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 25, 2011

When it comes to tights, don't forget Paul Niland and Wags.