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 ADVANCED
Spiney Ridge

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
20th Century Man S 
Access All Areas S 
Applauding Eagle S 
Cheers S 
Cornerstone S 
Damn Right I've Got the Moves S 
De Gaulle Syndrome S 
Down n' Dirty S 
Fight Club S 
Green Grenade S 
Hourglass, The S 
Hurricane, The S 
Keystone S 
Nalalator S 
New Philanthropists, The S,TR 
Purple Toe Nails S 
Quoting Yoda S 
Return of the Headhunters S 
Rising, The S 
Short & Sweet S 
Stone of Ignorance S 
Straight Rocket S 
Sugar and Spice S 
Toxxxic Entertainment S 
Tractatus S 
Travis is Sole King S 
Tree Trimmer S 
Weapons Of Mass Arousal S 
Unsorted Routes:

Spiney Ridge  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,900'
Location: 38.6307, -105.2178 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,715
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Apr 12, 2002
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Looking down from the anchor on 20th Century Man.

Description 

A great cliff between the 'new' Gym and Cactus Cliff. Offering some very good routes, mostly sport routes with some gear routes mixed in between. Mostly always in the sun during the day, which makes for enjoyable pocket pulling. Classics on the cliff include, The Hurricane, Cornerstone and (IMHO) Tractatus.

Getting There 

From the new parking area by The Bank Camground, follow the road NW towards The Bank for ~100yds. Pickup the trail on the right side of the road that descends into the canyon. Follow this trail for ~5 minutes, crossing the canyon bottom, and passing below the 2150 Wall, to a terminus at the road that heads up above Cactus Cliff (this road was the former approach to Cactus). Turn left and follow the road uphill towards Cactus. Continue along the road as it banks hard right, passing the new toilet. Where the trail banks left, continue west, passing signage, along a well maintained trail that traverses Cactus Cliff. Follow the trail around the SE buttress of Cactus. Once you cross a prominent drainage you will arrive at Spiney Ridge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

28 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',10],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spiney Ridge:
Damn Right I've Got the Moves   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Cheers   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Travis is Sole King   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Toxxxic Entertainment   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
20th Century Man   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Access All Areas   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Tractatus   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Return of the Headhunters   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Cornerstone   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The New Philanthropists   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Straight Rocket   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Purple Toe Nails   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
De Gaulle Syndrome   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Hurricane   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Rising   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Weapons Of Mass Arousal   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Spiney Ridge

Featured Route For Spiney Ridge
Bart Calkins at the crux.

Cornerstone 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CO : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge
This has continuously fun moves on good solid rock that's not too sharp. There is pro by the hard moves, but there are some runouts on easier ground. At the top, there is a section where there are some non-trivial, harder if you are shorter than 5'6", moves above and around the corner from the 7th bolt.It is easy for the grade, the crux is at the 2nd bolt....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Spiney Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Spiney Ridge - left. <br /> <br />Sunday Pockets is renamed 20th Century Man in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guidebook.
BETA PHOTO: Spiney Ridge - left.

Sunday Pockets is renamed 20...
Spiney Ridge at moonrise, April, 2011.
Spiney Ridge at moonrise, April, 2011.

Comments on Spiney Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Surlyman
Jun 22, 2005
Was climbing at Shelf Road on the weekend. A climber led Pully Mammoth and set it up on top rope for his girlfriend. She couldn't pull the roof so he top-roped it to clean it. He grabbed the jug to pull himself over the roof and a rock the size of a loaf of bread broke off in his hand and landed on the ground a few feet from his girlfriend.

Given the now missing jug I suspect this climb is now a tad harder than it used to be.
By Unassigned User
May 3, 2011
I was wondering if anyone knows if that project ever got got. I got up it but fell a few times 3 years ago or so and never went back. It was a super cool climb!
By Kenny P
From: Woodland Park
Oct 28, 2012
Perhaps someone out there can help me identify a route I climbed yesterday at Spiney Ridge. I recently moved to the area, and after three trips to Shelf, we decided to steer clear of the weekend crowds along Cactus - we selected Spiney (no one around!). It appears there are discrepancies between MP and the New Shelf Road guidebook.
I led a route to the right of #15 on MP's topo (Nalalator); it begins just to the LEFT of the small tree in the photo, in a small steep corner. The route ascends this corner (the first of two cruxes) escapes onto the ledge system, trends just slightly to the right, and continues all the way to the cliff top with another technical section mid-way. (The climbing near the anchors is also a bit difficult). This was a good route I'd give it "one-less star" than all the stars in whichever rating system you use! I estimate the overall difficulty around 11a/b????? Definitely not included in either guide.