Spiney Norman  5.11c

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Skinner and Wald 1985 Submitted By:  Paul Heyliger on Jun 23, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

beginning of spiney

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This fine corner is one line left of Carol's Crack and is most conveniently completed in two short (80') pitches. To start, scramble up and left around the blocks and flakes left of Carol's and belay in the broken area. A moderate (5.8) first pitch takes the crack system that is two cracks left of Carol's, then trends right at about half a rope-length to a belay (this coincides with most of the first pitch of Whine and Bruises and avoids lesser quality rock in the right crack). The crux second pitch takes finger jams, laybacks, and stems up the corner to a fairly distinct crux section near the top. Spiney Norman was orignally graded 12a, partially because of a bit of lichen at the crux. It has cleaned up nicely into another worthwhile outing at 11c.

Protection 

Many small stoppers and large RP's, with a few TCU's and small cams up to #1 Camalot.