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3 - Spine Cave
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Spinal Twist 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Trent Baker
Page Views: 2,817
Submitted By: Braxtron on Dec 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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The start of the business. Josie brailles the cri...

Description 

Like the Shepard's Pie we used to choke-down in grade school, this climb has pretty much everything, aside from mystery meat: crimps, pockets, side-pull, heel hook, knee bar, lumpy-tufa, and the cherry on top: it's over-hanging.

Location 

In the back-left of the first cave you'll encounter walking the trail (Spine Cave). Starts and stays just left of the tufa (spine-looking thing) down low.

Protection 

You'll need 4 quickdraws to supplement the graciously-provided chain draws. There are 2 chains, but no carabiners, at the top of this climb as of 02/09.


Photos of Spinal Twist Slideshow Add Photo
Good view of most of the route.  Andrew Haag climb...
Good view of most of the route. Andrew Haag climb...
jbak set up for the next move
jbak set up for the next move
Fun movement on this route.
Fun movement on this route.
The awkward 3rd clip
The awkward 3rd clip
Angel working "Spinal Twist"
Angel working "Spinal Twist"

Comments on Spinal Twist Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 24, 2013
By Braxtron
From: ...
Dec 16, 2007

You don't have to knee bar. There's an alternate way to do it that worked better for me (I don't care for knee bar-ing), which involves putting your right foot higher. Hopefully that's ambiguous enough to not give away too much beta.
By jbak
Jan 20, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Perhaps the best "low 12" sport route in S. Az. This climb really rocks.

Takes 4 draws, then has chain-draws. Perhaps a touch stiff for 12b since the FAist was 6'6" and therefore could do the crux clip from the kneebar. Tyler (who wrote the guide) was over 6' also. The crux chain-draw has a uncinched carabiner which allows it to spin. Next time I'm there I will replace it with a longer, better, properly puttied chain-draw.

Update: crux chaindraw replaced Feb 2008.
By jbak
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Not sure why you care but...4 bolts, 3 chain-draws, + a poorly placed 2-chain anchor.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 27, 2008

Ask away Daryl. I am guessing the reason John wrote his comment the way he did is because it is a sport route. Look up, count hangers, rack up. I am sure it just struck John as an odd question for a sport route. So ask away, post routes, put up new routes, post topos, and have fun climbing. Hope to finally meet you at the Beanfest next week. Eric
By jbak
Dec 5, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Looking back I can see another question hidden inside Daryl's question. He mentions a "handful of loose biners". So I guess it was unclear that a chain-draw generally INCLUDES the biner. Otherwise the chain-draw would not really serve a very useful function.
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 9, 2009

As of 10/08 there are two biners on the chains for lowering. Lowering off and cleaning the first three draws is still difficult, though.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 20, 2010

joe i assume you meant 10/09?
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 21, 2010

Yeah, I meant 10/08/09 (Oct 8th 2009).
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 1, 2010

the movement on this route is AMAZING!!1
By Ryan F.
From: Tucson, Arizona
Aug 10, 2010
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Here's a cool video with a dope beat.



The actual ascension was at a later date......sorry about the swearing.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 9, 2013

I left two quickdraws (and some blood) on this route. I plan to return to work this line as time allows. Please consider these working draws and not booty. Thanks in advance.
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 24, 2013

John, it was tempting taking those draws today with me :-)