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Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Brother 
Chapel Pond Slabs 
Chouinard's Gully  
Crystal Ice Tower 
Dogleg Right T 
Evisceration 
Geek, The 
Haggis and Cold Toast 
Hot Shot 
Ice Slot 
Ice Storm 
Laceration 
Lames Ice Hose 
Lions on the Beach 
Material Girl 
Positive Reinforcement 
Power Play 
Pussyfootin' With Lilith 
Quinn the Eskimo 
Reunion 
Rule of the Bone 
Seldom Scene 
Spike 
Whales in the Jungle 
White Line Fever 

Spike 

WI4+ M4

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus: WI4+ M4 [details]
FA: 1999: Tom Yandon, Joe Szot
Page Views: 959
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Jan 2, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The route Spike, taken December 29, 2012.

Description 

Varied climbing with a dramatic finish. A favorite of Joe Szot, and named after his dog.

P1 (M4): Go up the crack past the two trees. After the second tree, traverse right to a ledge (crux). If it's snowy and the holds are hidden, this can be desperate. Once on the ledge, continue right to belay in a tree clump well right of the next pitch.

P2 (WI4+): Traverse back left on the ledges, then straight up to the spike. Get in the hidden cave behind the spike for a welcome rest. Ride the spike to its top, then go up and left on a slab to the trees.

Descent: Double rope rappel back to your packs, then another rappel down the gully.

If conditions permit, the direct is a real prize.

Location 

This route is located on the wall right of the Power Play / Lilith area, just before the lake narrows towards the outlet. Walk up to the Laceration/Reunion amphitheater, then follow the wall up and left. Scramble/solo up a steep, iced-up streambed, then up the slope another 50' to a right-leaning crack with two trees (the first tree is 10' up, and the tree is 20' up).

Protection 

Standard ice mixed rack to 3".


Photos of Spike Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on P2 of Spike. In these conditions, there's plenty of rock gear.
Climbers on P2 of Spike. In these conditions, ther...

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