Spigolo Sud aka the South Rib
||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 660', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||A. Cobertaldo and L. Pezzoti 1 August 1939|
|Season: ||dry usually late spring, summer and/or fall|
|Page Views: ||603|
|Submitted By: ||Brian in SLC on Jan 17, 2012|
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Finishing the fifth pitch of the South Rib of Sass...
A great route, well worn from many ascents, popular, climbs quickly, relatively short approach, with a great historical descent through old WWI trenches.
Can be crowded. Sometimes very crowded.
The route starts on the left side of an open trough (on the left side of the little pinnacle), just right of the south rib. Climb up and left, staying just right of the ridge crest for the first pitch (~25m) and the second pitch (~40m).
The third pitch climbs up to the crest of the rib, then, jogs right through a slanted chimney, then, breaks back left to the ridge crest to a belay (~45m).
Fourth pitch climbs up on large features to a ledge which wraps around to the southwest.
Fifth pitch climbs back to the right, though the nifty slot, to a belay at the base of the obvious left-facing corner crack (~40m).
Pitch 6: climb up the crack (~25m). This is the crux pitch at around 5.7 or so in difficulty. A couple of bolts protect this pitch. Belay from the very large, iron fixed piece (viewable from the parking lot…ha ha) where the summit register can also be found. An easier escape option around to the right avoids the steep crack keeping the route at a more modest grade of 5.5/5.6.
Great 360 degree views from the top.
Follow the standard normal summit route back down, passing through trenches, climbing down old iron ladders, and, marveling at the effort required to hang onto this hunk of rock in WWI. The trail is marked in red. Well travelled, and, leads back to the main road. Descent takes from 45 minutes to an hour.
The very prominent south rib on the left side skyline of the peak when viewed from the pass.
From the large boulder and parking spot, take the well worn trail leading towards the southeast face. Follow the trail around to the left to the base of the south aręte.
The hike to the start of the route should take around 20 minutes.
The climb is well protected with fixed anchors. Belays all have nice anchors.
A small set of nuts and cams, along with a few shoulder lengths slings and a few quick draws should suffice for supplemental protection.
Spigolo Sud aka the South Rib is the left skyline ...
Base of the South Rib of the Hexenstein
Scrambling up the first pitch on the South Rib of ...
Final pitch on the Sass de Stria's Spigolo Sud
Third pitch of Spigolo Sud on the Sass de Stria
Pitch 6 belay anchor on Spigolo Sud on the Hexenst...
Chimney up high on the third pitch of the Hexenste...
BETA PHOTO: Seen from the Valparola Pass highway is the entran...
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Jan 20, 2012
Your right Brian, the descent from this summit is not only a classic Dolomite hike - but a tour through history. It's amazing what the people of the era did to protect their country.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jul 11, 2012
The 5.7 last pitch is quite polished and is actually a variation to the original route and can be bypassed to the right. If that is done, the route is probably only about 5.3-5.5. Not much pro on the climb, but it is easy enough that you don't really need it.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 19, 2013
The German language guidebook by Mauro Bernardi points out there's an alternative access to this climb via the "Golginger Stollen," an W.W. I military tunnel through the mountain. Headlamps or flashlight essential. See the recently added picture for the start.