"Spigolo Fiames," SE Arete
|Type: ||Trad, 15 pitches, 1350', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||F. Jori and Kaethe Broske, 19 August 1909.|
|Season: ||Dry weather|
|Page Views: ||875|
|Submitted By: ||Rodger Raubach on Nov 25, 2011|
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Maurizio "Toto" de Zanna, leading "Spigolo Fiames,...
The route follows several easy pitches of the Via Commune , until the ledge system for a rising traverse across the face to the base of the Arete becomes obvious. The angle steepens and climbing becomes somewhat more challenging, but never extreme. The "crux" involves a series of moves around a corner onto the East face where a wide crack is surmounted back onto the arete proper. This is a leaning offwidth that is liberally supplied with pitons, and may approach 5.8 in difficulty. The options become more and more limited as the arete narrows; stay on the crest for the most part, with occasional excursions to the right (East).
This route is characteized by excellent rock and great protection.
Descend by means of a path to the North leading to a scree gully; the gully ends at a marked path.
The route begins at the SE base of the formation and follows the "Via Commune" for several pitches
Mostly fixed protection; bring a light rack with a few larger camming devices (#3 Camalot). Bring plenty of slings.
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|Comments on "Spigolo Fiames," SE Arete
|By Rodger Raubach|
Nov 25, 2011
Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs" lists this as Route 51. There is a fairly good topo included.