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Spiders From Mars 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Dekker, Horan, Guerin, 1981
Season: year round
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 26, 2006
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At the stance at the start of the crux. Luke is lo...

Description 

This is a worthwhile trad pitch, with a little more climbing than its partner, Jungle Blues. While these pitches are fun, they probably did not provide commensurate challenges for the highpowered FA team.

Climb the initial corner of Jungle Blues which someone on this site calls 10a while Rolofson calls it 11a. If you want to do this short climb in one pitch, back clean the gear below the roof and set up a bomber directional for the second above the roof. Once above the roof, traverse right easily until at the base the prominent, right-facing SFM corner. Rolofson recommends belaying here, but I recommend continuing. The move getting into the corner involves passing a somewhat tricky small bulge with micro pro. From here, the corner steepens with a crux about where you'd expect it. There is good gear through the crux. Above the corner, surmount a pedestal, briefly contemplate with dismay the licheny, vertical, blank face above you, then step left into the easy left-facing exit corner of Jungle Blues. After about 20', step right onto a ledge with rap bolts.


Location 

On the Wake Up Wall, this uses the same start as Jungle Blues.

This wall is south-facing and close to the parking lot.


Protection 

We used: A couple of small RPs, single set of Rocks to #7, 1 ea 0.4 - 2 Camalot, a green and a red Alien, long slings.



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By Lenny Miller
Mar 19, 2012

A nice mixed sport/trad link-up exists that straightens the line and provides a consistent single pitch to fixed anchors: start with the initial Caterer corner (11a/b?), then head into the stellar (but short) Spiders dihedral (11c), then jog right to the final Caterer headwall (12a) and anchors above. To prevent rope drag, sling any trad gear below the first bolt long, as well as the first two bolts on the upper headwall. Gear up to 1". It makes for one of the better lines on Wakeup Wall.