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The Spider's Den
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Spiders and Snakes S 

Spiders and Snakes 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Horan, 1998
Page Views: 584
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

This overhanging jug haul is a worthwhile way of extending your day after the main areas in Dream Canyon come into the summer sun. Quite steep, the anchors overhang the start by about 12', it is unrelenting but did not seem to me to have a defined crux. You wouldn't want to blow the second clip, but it is from good holds.

The 12a rating in Rolofson's guide seemed quite soft, even by the standards of DC; at Wild Iris this would probably be 5.10.


Location 

Follow the chalk -- as of this writing, S&S is the only route on The Spider's Den.


Protection 

Six bolts.



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By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Sep 3, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

6 bolts + 2 anchors. Granted all of the moves on this thing may be 5.10 individually, this thing adds up to an extremely pumpy route when you link them all up. Get on it!

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Sep 27, 2008

A very fun route and certainly very different compared to the vertical, technical climbing typical of Upper Dream.

By brain damage
May 30, 2010

This is a great climb, just super pumpy. The holds are bomber, it's a long, sustained, overhung wall.

By Bob Rotert
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Love the pump this route gives. Probably several ways to climb this. You can get a bit of a rest in the groove off left at the second bolt. It may be easier and tempting to sneak off right for a rest higher on a ledge that comes in from the right 2/3rds of the way up. Stay on track for the full value. Pumpy and fun! Seemed like solid to upper 11 range was about right for the way we did it. Could be harder if you stay right of the first few bolts and don't move left and up the groove.