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Spiders & Snakes 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess & Chris Caldwell - 1988
Page Views: 1,583
Submitted By: porter jarrard on Mar 18, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Darrel Hensley leading S & S either late 1989 or e...
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Description 

Steep face to cruxy slab move making the transition?


Location 

Left end of big slab that is located to the right of the breakdown gulley. Immediately right of Love Wig


Protection 

Mixed



Photos of Spiders & Snakes Slideshow Add Photo
BB. on FA of Spiders & Snakes loving the Hooks!
BB. on FA of Spiders & Snakes loving the Hooks!
Bruce working on S & S January 1988.
Bruce working on S & S January 1988.
Comments on Spiders & Snakes Add Comment
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By CDC
Sep 25, 2011

Bruce Burgess and I did this first using a small tree at the bottom for the starting protection then got hooks and placed the bolts maybe around 1988. It never had an R rating!
Thanks,
C Caldwell

By CDC
Oct 30, 2011

FA. was actually done during Winter of 1988 ground up by Bruce Burgess & Chris Caldwell.

By Bennett Harris
From: Charlotte, NC
Dec 11, 2011

I felt that this was a very sustained climb, with a few "cruxy" sections and some heady difficult moves high above bolts. Take a small cam or two for the very top.

By BruceBurgessNC
Dec 31, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Climbed this again for the first time in a good while. Holy Smokes! I admit. I'm biased, but damned if this isn't the one of most amazing free climbable slices of stone in NC. The route ain't mine, it's the earth's. I just drilled the bolts (with a lot of help and coaching from my mentor Chris Caldwell).

By Jamie Ervin
Jan 1, 2013

I totally agree with you Bruce! I hangdogged this thing yesterday and I'm still thinking about it. One question: does the route traverse over to the first bolt from the left or does it start on the arete to the right of the bolt? I tried both ways and found them both to be pretty difficult.

By BruceBurgessNC
Jan 6, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I start way left at a crack and gun for it. Haven't done the direct start, but if I did, I'd just stick clip the 2nd bolt.