|10,462 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 180 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.7+ [details]|
|FA: ||Steve Strauch, Danny Gates 1969|
|Season: ||Year Round|
|Submitted By: ||Karsten on Feb 2, 2006|
Raluca Negru chills out at 2nd pitch anchors on Sp...
Spiderman is one of the great moderate trad climbs at Smith. This crack on the tuft is surprisingly solid and has some surprisingly exciting moves for such an moderately graded climb.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Begin on the right side of a large ramp. climb up a right angling crack to a bolted anchor on the left. . . or continue on and link up pitch 2
Pitch 2: 5.7 Continue up the hand crack in the dihedral above. Belay at bolt anchors on the face.
Pitch 3: 5.7 From the belay move left into a seam that quickly opens into a fingercrack. Take this crack to the improbable roof. Pull the roof and continue up easy climbing to a chain anchor on top. Watch rope drag!
Alternate Pitch 3: This easier but less popular variation lacks the luster of the regular finish. From the belay you can take the crack heading up and left avoiding the roof.
Descent: You can rappel the route with two ropes but pulling the ropes can be nasty.
A walk off descent to climber's right requires a bit of scrambling but is easier.
Stand double cam rack to 3.5 inches w/ standard nuts selection
All anchors are bolted
CJ heading to the first belay.
A nice shot back in my helmet wearing days. I'm l...
Looking down from top of second pitch.
Start of pitch three (or pitch 2 if first belay wa...
BETA PHOTO: 1st Pitch of Spiderman
BETA PHOTO: There goes the Spiderman.
Ryan, pulling the Improbable Roof
Heading into the improbable roof. photo by Andy P...
Nearing the top of pitch 2. Photo by Andy Prahl.
Stepping into the finger crack of pitch 3. Photo ...
|By Bryson Slothower|
Mar 17, 2006
don't rap the route, it's not set up for it (last I saw).
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 27, 2006
Aren't the first pitch anchors the fat Metolious bolts that you can rap from????
|By Sam Jackson|
Apr 4, 2006
Rapping from the top anchors to the first set will get your rope stuck, at least we did, our rope is still up there. It's best to do the walkoff that includes small raps and downclimbing.
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 1, 2006
I hear you Sam. I would recommend the walk off also.
|By dean rose|
Feb 10, 2007
This is generally thought of as a two pitch route (skip the first anchors), it can also be done as one pitch with a 70 meter rope if you are comfortable at the grade. Last anchors are not set up for rappel so plan on walking off which requires some third class down climbing.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Sep 15, 2008
Phenomenal route in the grade...best done as 2 pitches. And I'm not sure what all the talk about the top anchors not being set up for rappelling is all about--We rapped the route in two rappels this past Saturday easily with one 60m rope. No snags, no ropes in other parties faces...nothing.
|By Gordon Keepers|
May 13, 2009
Just did it on sunday. All three of us rapped it on double 60 meter ropes tied together. Rope was retrieved, just gotta make sure it will pull. Might have to pull hard but it'll come.
|By Brent Grenfell|
May 9, 2010
This is hands down the most stellar and enjoyable 5.7 I've climbed. Great pro placements. A #4 BD will come in handy. I walked off, b/c the rap didn't look clean and you have to Rap off Widow Maker bolts. this is a great climb for someone breaking thru to multi-pitch trad.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Nov 7, 2010
Climbed for the first time yesterday. Lead both pitches. Mostly easy climbing, except for the move to get up to the 1st belay, and getting around the roof. There is one final slightly-tricky move just at the end too.
You should definitely skip the first set of anchors. The first bit of climbing is super easy and there is pretty much no rope drag to the second anchor. Besides, one of the anchors is setup for the sport route up the face, and the other (with the rap rings) is in a position where you can't stand up while clipped in unless you have a very long runner/daisy chain/whatever.
Will second the usefulness of a #4 BD. Used it on the first pitch, above the first set of anchors.
Not sure where the established trail leads, but there is an exposed easy-5th-class boulder descent of about 20 feet to bring you down at the top of the gully above and to the right of where you start the route.
The route is ABSOLUTELY set up for rappelling: simple, safe, and easy. Just rap from the top anchors to the top of the buttress (that anchor you skipped earlier). A single 60m rope will get you there with some feet to spare (knot your ends!). I clipped into the sport anchor so I could stand up comfortably while I waited for my friend to rap. Rope did jam a little bit on the first tug, but with a little flicking came free. Pulled the rope, got showered with some small rocks (it's quite dirty at the top), then rappelled to the ground.
SWEET, SWEET, SWEET ROUTE!
|By Jason D|
Mar 13, 2012
Ran into some angry bats in the hand crack on pitch two.
|By Floyd Hayes|
Jul 18, 2012
Forget the nuts--I didn't use a single one. The cracks eat up medium to big cams--taking two sets would be useful. Where was the class 4 walkoff? We wound up descending the last 10' by hand on an old fixed rope with knots.
|By Ray Pinpillage|
Oct 6, 2012
I've seen ropes get stuck rapping the line. Just walk off. There is an easy 5th decent in the ledges/gully climbers right of the buttress. There is also a fixed line down through a flake to the left of the decent gully. Walking down is faster and easier than rapping.
From: Bend, OR
Oct 7, 2012
|By another Chad|
Dec 1, 2012
I agree with what Ray said above. Consider walking off, it's safe, easy, quick and you won't be getting in the way of any following parties. Walk climber's right from Spiderman to the obvious descent.
Regarding the top-out: please be extra careful, there's quite a bit of loose rock up there and people tend to congregate at the base of this route.
|By Richard Shore|
Apr 22, 2013
This route is not listed in the Raptor Closures for 2013, but there are a pair of nesting hawks with 4 eggs in the crack before the second set of bolted anchors as of April. Please stay off the route so as not to disturb them further.