Spiderman 

don't rap the route, it's not set up for it (last I saw).

Aren't the first pitch anchors the fat Metolious bolts that you can rap from????

Rapping from the top anchors to the first set will get your rope stuck, at least we did, our rope is still up there. It's best to do the walkoff that includes small raps and downclimbing.

I hear you Sam. I would recommend the walk off also.

This is generally thought of as a two pitch route (skip the first anchors), it can also be done as one pitch with a 70 meter rope if you are comfortable at the grade. Last anchors are not set up for rappel so plan on walking off which requires some third class down climbing.

Phenomenal route in the grade...best done as 2 pitches. And I'm not sure what all the talk about the top anchors not being set up for rappelling is all about--We rapped the route in two rappels this past Saturday easily with one 60m rope. No snags, no ropes in other parties faces...nothing.

Just did it on sunday. All three of us rapped it on double 60 meter ropes tied together. Rope was retrieved, just gotta make sure it will pull. Might have to pull hard but it'll come.

This is hands down the most stellar and enjoyable 5.7 I've climbed. Great pro placements. A #4 BD will come in handy. I walked off, b/c the rap didn't look clean and you have to Rap off Widow Maker bolts. this is a great climb for someone breaking thru to multi-pitch trad.

Climbed for the first time yesterday. Lead both pitches. Mostly easy climbing, except for the move to get up to the 1st belay, and getting around the roof. There is one final slightly-tricky move just at the end too.

You should definitely skip the first set of anchors. The first bit of climbing is super easy and there is pretty much no rope drag to the second anchor. Besides, one of the anchors is setup for the sport route up the face, and the other (with the rap rings) is in a position where you can't stand up while clipped in unless you have a very long runner/daisy chain/whatever.

Will second the usefulness of a #4 BD. Used it on the first pitch, above the first set of anchors.

Not sure where the established trail leads, but there is an exposed easy-5th-class boulder descent of about 20 feet to bring you down at the top of the gully above and to the right of where you start the route.

The route is ABSOLUTELY set up for rappelling: simple, safe, and easy. Just rap from the top anchors to the top of the buttress (that anchor you skipped earlier). A single 60m rope will get you there with some feet to spare (knot your ends!). I clipped into the sport anchor so I could stand up comfortably while I waited for my friend to rap. Rope did jam a little bit on the first tug, but with a little flicking came free. Pulled the rope, got showered with some small rocks (it's quite dirty at the top), then rappelled to the ground.

SWEET, SWEET, SWEET ROUTE!

Ran into some angry bats in the hand crack on pitch two.

Forget the nuts--I didn't use a single one. The cracks eat up medium to big cams--taking two sets would be useful. Where was the class 4 walkoff? We wound up descending the last 10' by hand on an old fixed rope with knots.

I've seen ropes get stuck rapping the line. Just walk off. There is an easy 5th decent in the ledges/gully climbers right of the buttress. There is also a fixed line down through a flake to the left of the decent gully. Walking down is faster and easier than rapping.

4 stars

I agree with what Ray said above. Consider walking off, it's safe, easy, quick and you won't be getting in the way of any following parties. Walk climber's right from Spiderman to the obvious descent.

Regarding the top-out: please be extra careful, there's quite a bit of loose rock up there and people tend to congregate at the base of this route.


Chad

This route is not listed in the Raptor Closures for 2013, but there are a pair of nesting hawks with 4 eggs in the crack before the second set of bolted anchors as of April. Please stay off the route so as not to disturb them further.