Spiderman 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | John Long and John Bachar, September 1975 |
| Submitted By: | M.Morley on Oct 19, 2002 |
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Mike Morley wishing for super powers on Spiderman.
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Description This is a burly 10a in my opinion. My climbing partner kept repeating "There is no way this is 10a" all the way up while following. On first glance, it appears that the route is essentially over once you pull through the overhanging section 25' off the ground. To my surprise, I found the rest of the route to be pretty sustained all-in-all. Begin just left of Colorado Crack. An overhanging section lies 25' off the deck. Above here, the flared crack is somewhat difficult to protect. The last 15' or so before topping out is wide and awkward. Anchor: slung block. To descend, scramble off to the north (climber's right) as for Colorado Crack. This involves a move or two of downclimbing.
Protection TCUs to 3" cams (double set).
BETA PHOTO: Conan's Corridor
| Scott follows.
| This photo shows just how long the upper section i...
| Don't mess with Spiderman...
| BETA PHOTO: Spiderman (5.10a/b)
| Ben leading spiderman
| Ben going for a fist jam
| Spiderman
| High on Spiderman.
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By RTM Feb 13, 2003 rating: 5.10a
| I went up there one summer afternoon, to beat the heat. Onsighted this thing on lead, it was hard, scaRy and long. Had to fight hard for that one. Rad climbing experience, rad climb! |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Mar 19, 2003 rating: 5.10b
| Almost lost it on this one, right at the top, if my right foot hadn't accidentally slotted into a pocket I would have been off. Way strenno. Spiderman is THE climb to do in the greater Jumbo Rocks area. |
By Tom Painter Aug 13, 2003
| Given the debate as to whether The Rubicon is 10b or 10c (not 10d) and Spiderman exacts a greater toll than The Rubicon, I'd give it 10b. Tom Painter |
By Bryce Breslin Mar 13, 2005
| Looked like the protection would be tricky at some key spots because of the flare to the crack. We slung the block to toprope it, note that you need lots of extension to do this.Some painful finger locks down low due to grainy rock before the crack opens to hands and wider.Great climb, though. I thought it was harder than Colorado Crack, my partner found them to be about the same. Bryce Breslin |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Apr 10, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| Climbed this route again today (4/10/05)and remembered how strenuous it was, yet also how good a climb it was, it's got some great moves over the bulge and up the crack to the offwidth, I arrived there feeling quite fresh - 10 seconds (and a few feet up the offwidth) later I was utterly knackered! I'm not so sure about 5.10a, sure the hardest move is about that, but geez, how to grade this one...? E2 5b that's my take. |
By Randy Sep 19, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| Great route, as good or better than Colorado Crack. Seemed like solid 10b to me. Protects very well with 1/2 to 1 inch cams, with wider stuff (2-3 inches) helpful for the top. |
By Woody Stark Sep 24, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| I was second on this today. Definitely 10B. Wear long pants or tape your left leg. |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Oct 9, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| Followed this route recently. Glad I was wearing knickers and not shorts and it definitely gave me a run for the money. Looked (and after discussion confirmed) that it takes good pro which for some reason we thought it didn't. I'd do it again when in the area. |
By Mulligan Feb 12, 2009
| This is a great route that really requires a cool head if your largest piece is a #2 Camalot. Unfortunately I almost lost it when my foot got stuck 5 feet from the top and I was looking at 30' footer. Thank god for armbars. |
By Alec May 29, 2011 rating: 5.10
| Burly, strenuous, painful, and often insecure crack climbing from fingers to offwidth. A pretty hefty sandbag, this is at least .10b, and likely harder, even by JTree standards. Really, really good line though. |
By bud miller From: SAR site, Camp4 Feb 1, 2012
| Thought this was more classic than the Colorado crack. Deserves full stars. Hard, but pros up great. |
By Rafael Rovirosa From: Las Cruces, NM Feb 15, 2012
| Pretty good climb. I like Colorado crack better. The jams on this one were pretty insecure as the crack is flaring. |
By Tommy G. From: Irvine, California Feb 20, 2012
| I led this for the second time this past weekend. I remembered feeling sick after I topped out the first time. Same experience this time. I agree with the person above that nothing on this is much (if at all) harder than .10a,,, but see what you think when you get to the top. VERY, very good & memorable. My favorite in the corridor for sure! Gear to BD #4 was totally comfortable, but anything less might result in the terror. See if you can do it sans tape gloves without any blood!!! >:) |
By will jimenez From: joshua tree Mar 23, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| A must do!! But don't be Fooled(sandbagged) Long You rock!! Bachar no words needed!! together priceless! Takes great gear, 4 at top if you want to pucker up leave the 4 on the ground... Be Safe have fun!! JTREE fuunnn!! |
By Simon Hatfield From: Los Angeles, CA Nov 5, 2012
| Hard for sure, and a tad grainy. I brought a #5 and #6, the #5 was nice to have. |
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