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Spiderman 

5.10a

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
FA: John Long and John Bachar, September 1975
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 19, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Mike Morley wishing for super powers on Spiderman.

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Description 

This is a burly 10a in my opinion. My climbing partner kept repeating "There is no way this is 10a" all the way up while following. On first glance, it appears that the route is essentially over once you pull through the overhanging section 25' off the ground. To my surprise, I found the rest of the route to be pretty sustained all-in-all.

Begin just left of Colorado Crack. An overhanging section lies 25' off the deck. Above here, the flared crack is somewhat difficult to protect. The last 15' or so before topping out is wide and awkward.

Anchor: slung block.

To descend, scramble off to the north (climber's right) as for Colorado Crack. This involves a move or two of downclimbing.


Protection 

TCUs to 3" cams (double set).



Photos of Spiderman Slideshow Add Photo
Conan's Corridor

BETA PHOTO: Conan's Corridor

Scott follows.

Scott follows.

This photo shows just how long the upper section is.

This photo shows just how long the upper section i...

Don't mess with Spiderman...

Don't mess with Spiderman...

Spiderman (5.10a/b)

BETA PHOTO: Spiderman (5.10a/b)

Ben leading spiderman

Ben leading spiderman

Ben going for a fist jam

Ben going for a fist jam

Spiderman

Spiderman

High on Spiderman.

High on Spiderman.


Comments on Spiderman Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 5, 2012
By RTM
Feb 13, 2003
rating: 5.10a

I went up there one summer afternoon, to beat the heat. Onsighted this thing on lead, it was hard, scaRy and long. Had to fight hard for that one. Rad climbing experience, rad climb!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 19, 2003
rating: 5.10b

Almost lost it on this one, right at the top, if my right foot hadn't accidentally slotted into a pocket I would have been off. Way strenno.

Spiderman is THE climb to do in the greater Jumbo Rocks area.

By Tom Painter
Aug 13, 2003

Given the debate as to whether The Rubicon is 10b or 10c (not 10d) and Spiderman exacts a greater toll than The Rubicon, I'd give it 10b. Tom Painter

By Bryce Breslin
Mar 13, 2005

Looked like the protection would be tricky at some key spots because of the flare to the crack. We slung the block to toprope it, note that you need lots of extension to do this.Some painful finger locks down low due to grainy rock before the crack opens to hands and wider.Great climb, though. I thought it was harder than Colorado Crack, my partner found them to be about the same.

Bryce Breslin

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 10, 2005
rating: 5.10b

Climbed this route again today (4/10/05)and remembered how strenuous it was, yet also how good a climb it was, it's got some great moves over the bulge and up the crack to the offwidth, I arrived there feeling quite fresh - 10 seconds (and a few feet up the offwidth) later I was utterly knackered! I'm not so sure about 5.10a, sure the hardest move is about that, but geez, how to grade this one...? E2 5b that's my take.

By Randy
Sep 19, 2005
rating: 5.10b

Great route, as good or better than Colorado Crack. Seemed like solid 10b to me. Protects very well with 1/2 to 1 inch cams, with wider stuff (2-3 inches) helpful for the top.

By Woody Stark
Sep 24, 2005
rating: 5.10b

I was second on this today. Definitely 10B. Wear long pants or tape your left leg.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a

Followed this route recently. Glad I was wearing knickers and not shorts and it definitely gave me a run for the money. Looked (and after discussion confirmed) that it takes good pro which for some reason we thought it didn't. I'd do it again when in the area.

By Mulligan
Feb 12, 2009

This is a great route that really requires a cool head if your largest piece is a #2 Camalot. Unfortunately I almost lost it when my foot got stuck 5 feet from the top and I was looking at 30' footer. Thank god for armbars.

By Alec
May 29, 2011
rating: 5.10

Burly, strenuous, painful, and often insecure crack climbing from fingers to offwidth. A pretty hefty sandbag, this is at least .10b, and likely harder, even by JTree standards. Really, really good line though.

By bud miller
From: SAR site, Camp4
Feb 1, 2012

Thought this was more classic than the Colorado crack. Deserves full stars. Hard, but pros up great.

By Rafael Rovirosa
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 15, 2012

Pretty good climb. I like Colorado crack better. The jams on this one were pretty insecure as the crack is flaring.

By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Feb 20, 2012

I led this for the second time this past weekend. I remembered feeling sick after I topped out the first time. Same experience this time. I agree with the person above that nothing on this is much (if at all) harder than .10a,,, but see what you think when you get to the top. VERY, very good & memorable. My favorite in the corridor for sure!

Gear to BD #4 was totally comfortable, but anything less might result in the terror.

See if you can do it sans tape gloves without any blood!!! >:)

By will jimenez
From: joshua tree
Mar 23, 2012
rating: 5.10a

A must do!! But don't be Fooled(sandbagged) Long You rock!! Bachar no words needed!! together priceless! Takes great gear, 4 at top if you want to pucker up leave the 4 on the ground... Be Safe have fun!!

JTREE fuunnn!!

By Simon Hatfield
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 5, 2012

Hard for sure, and a tad grainy. I brought a #5 and #6, the #5 was nice to have.