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The Old Woman - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bearded Cabbage T 
Buttered Croissant T 
Deviate T 
Geronimo T 
Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 
Judas T 
Spider T 
Spider Line T 
Tabby Litter T 
Toe Jam T 
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Svenson and George Karsh, 1968; FFA: Don O'Kelley, 1969
Page Views: 1,051
Submitted By: M.Morley on May 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - East Face


Approach as for Toe Jam.

Start as for Toe Jam, but two-thirds of the way up the route where Toe Jam cuts straight up, instead continue right along tricky diagonal crack (crux) to 2-bolt anchor/rap (same as rappel anchor for Toe Jam).


Standard rack to 3".

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Spider on the east side of The Old Woman
Spider on the east side of The Old Woman

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By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Jun 18, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

For 17 years I've never seen anyone on this route, so when fishkiller said he wanted to lead it; I was game. As far back as the "purple book", this has been a 2-pitch climb that starts just right of the true Toe Jam start. (Same start everyone uses for Toe Jam.) It traverses across the east side of the Old Woman in full view of the Hidden Valley campsites - the center of Josh climbing.

Current guides show the first belay station near the top of Toe Jam, but it's better to go to the top of Spiderline so you can protect the leader on the much tougher second pitch.

On the first pitch, have a couple medium cams for the "no hands" hand traverse.
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