|The Old Woman - East Face
Approach as for Toe Jam.
Start as for Toe Jam, but two-thirds of the way up the route where Toe Jam cuts straight up, instead continue right along tricky diagonal crack (crux) to 2-bolt anchor/rap (same as rappel anchor for Toe Jam).
Standard rack to 3".
Spider on the east side of The Old Woman
From: Newport Beach
Jun 18, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For 17 years I've never seen anyone on this route, so when fishkiller said he wanted to lead it; I was game. As far back as the "purple book", this has been a 2-pitch climb that starts just right of the true Toe Jam start. (Same start everyone uses for Toe Jam.) It traverses across the east side of the Old Woman in full view of the Hidden Valley campsites - the center of Josh climbing.
Current guides show the first belay station near the top of Toe Jam, but it's better to go to the top of Spiderline so you can protect the leader on the much tougher second pitch.
On the first pitch, have a couple medium cams for the "no hands" hand traverse.