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Routes in Suction Gully
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Cape Canaveral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Grandfather Hobgoblin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lickety Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Mish Monster T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rink-Kudo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spider Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Totgoblin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Joe Theobald, Jon Biemer, Doug Black 1972 |
| Page Views: | 8,025 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Manny Rangel on Nov 6, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
Spiderwalk is a long route finding adventure. The climbing at the final pitch gives us the name although nowadays most folks climb the crack to the anchors in the Eye.
If you stay on easy ground along the buttress where the bolts go (on the original second pitch) and wend your way above on the easiest ground, you'll find yourself on the ledge's right or center. Good luck and don't add bolts please.
Pitch 1: Begin below the huge boulder on the north shady side of the buttress about a couple of hundred feet up the scree slope. Climb right along sloping ledge to the huge boulder; comes in from far left or boulder directly up (5.6 pg-13). Either belay on top of huge boulder (recommended to reduce rope drag) or continue climbing up and right to edge of roof (linkcams fit great in a pocket) and head left to the blunt arete. Two old bolts wander up easy bulges on a flakey face. The old first pitch continues past a newer rappel anchor; Some stop here to reduce rope drag. Either way move up to easy groove going towards a small pillar and belay at two bolt belay between main wall and small pillar with belay hole. (180', 5.6 pg-13)
Pitch 2: Climb up and right on run out face (2 bolts) to below the obvious chimney/crack, step right along the buttress and look for the third bolt and some protection. As you approach the belay ledge, stay low and traverse to easier ground just below the anchor. A nice ledge provides some shelter and rest before heading directly right into the huge chimney. (150', 5.5 pg-13) Pitch 3: traverse right into the huge chimney and climb this long pitch until you can reach a ledge on the right side, just before the crack tops out. Look on the west side of the big boulder for the anchor.(5.6, 150')
Pitch 4: step down and across to the main wall where some crumbly looking un-protected face moves with big huecos lead around and right of a crack (spider walk). Climb back into the crack after about 30' and aim for the hole at the top of the rock (100', 5.6 R).
Variation of P4 (recommended 5.7) is to climb the crack directly and avoid the crumbly face moves/Spider Walk. Good protection leads to a wide spot up high. If you don't have a #5 Camalot, look for a thin crack way left below the wide crack (bring a long sling). Otherwise, it's easy OW move or two without protection. If you reached the end of the route at the hole belay, you can add two more pitches to the actual summit.
Pitch 5: Climb out of the hole, turn right and up the leaning crack forming the pillar above the hole. Reach the fixed gear anchor and belay.
Pitch 6: Go left on easy ground to the final finger crack to the top of the spire. Build a gear anchor and downclimb after enjoying the view.
Descent: Rap the route w/ two 60m ropes.
If you stay on easy ground along the buttress where the bolts go (on the original second pitch) and wend your way above on the easiest ground, you'll find yourself on the ledge's right or center. Good luck and don't add bolts please.
Pitch 1: Begin below the huge boulder on the north shady side of the buttress about a couple of hundred feet up the scree slope. Climb right along sloping ledge to the huge boulder; comes in from far left or boulder directly up (5.6 pg-13). Either belay on top of huge boulder (recommended to reduce rope drag) or continue climbing up and right to edge of roof (linkcams fit great in a pocket) and head left to the blunt arete. Two old bolts wander up easy bulges on a flakey face. The old first pitch continues past a newer rappel anchor; Some stop here to reduce rope drag. Either way move up to easy groove going towards a small pillar and belay at two bolt belay between main wall and small pillar with belay hole. (180', 5.6 pg-13)
Pitch 2: Climb up and right on run out face (2 bolts) to below the obvious chimney/crack, step right along the buttress and look for the third bolt and some protection. As you approach the belay ledge, stay low and traverse to easier ground just below the anchor. A nice ledge provides some shelter and rest before heading directly right into the huge chimney. (150', 5.5 pg-13) Pitch 3: traverse right into the huge chimney and climb this long pitch until you can reach a ledge on the right side, just before the crack tops out. Look on the west side of the big boulder for the anchor.(5.6, 150')
Pitch 4: step down and across to the main wall where some crumbly looking un-protected face moves with big huecos lead around and right of a crack (spider walk). Climb back into the crack after about 30' and aim for the hole at the top of the rock (100', 5.6 R).
Variation of P4 (recommended 5.7) is to climb the crack directly and avoid the crumbly face moves/Spider Walk. Good protection leads to a wide spot up high. If you don't have a #5 Camalot, look for a thin crack way left below the wide crack (bring a long sling). Otherwise, it's easy OW move or two without protection. If you reached the end of the route at the hole belay, you can add two more pitches to the actual summit.
Pitch 5: Climb out of the hole, turn right and up the leaning crack forming the pillar above the hole. Reach the fixed gear anchor and belay.
Pitch 6: Go left on easy ground to the final finger crack to the top of the spire. Build a gear anchor and downclimb after enjoying the view.
Descent: Rap the route w/ two 60m ropes.
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