|739 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 210 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.12b [details]|
|FA: ||Mike Snyder, 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By: ||Mike Snyder on Jul 16, 2008|
Dan Miller on the 1st Pitch of Spider Pig 5.11a.
The first and currently only sport route to go to the top of the Tunnel Wall which ranges from 120' to 200' tall. Airy and fun, this well protected climb is challenging and ascends fantastic rock the entire way.
Pitch 1: Steep right from the start for 15' to the ledge. Head straight up on good jugs to slopier holds aound the sixth bolt. Several mantles higher up will keep you on your toes. Bypass the sporty single pitch anchor via a thin slanting rail to mantle yet another ledge and find a chain anchor. 5.11a 80'
Alt Pitch 1: Climb Digital Jedi 5.11c, the route to the left which climbs to the same anchor. Another excellent climb.
Pitch 2: Follow the bolt line rambling upward over slabby terrain. Easier climbing on fun features lead to a slanting ledge. Follow three more bolts up steeper right trending features to the larger dirt ledge and another chain anchor. 5.8 65'
Pitch 3: Step to the right side of the ledge and follow ten bolts up the steep wall on generally good rails the whole way. Very sustained with bouldery sequences from the time you leave the ledge. Clip the sport anchor or top out. If you do top out, there is currently no anchor on top near the edge, but there several trees as anchor options. 5.12b 65'
Begins on the shiniest bolts at the far right of the Tunnel Wall in the back of The Island. Climb straight up after the ledge so as to not end up on the right line of bolts which is Illegal Dihedral. The third pitch ascends the wall just left of the prominent dihedral at the top of the wall.
P1: 9 clips, sport anchor or clip it and go to the chains above.
P2: 9 clips, Chains
P3: 10 clips, Sport anchor or top out and use a tree.
Dan Miller grapples with the slopey rounded holds ...
Dave Klug following me up the second pitch of Spid...
BETA PHOTO: the route from base to top. (too lazy right now to...