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Spider Biter
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Second Tier
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Bee's Knees T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Handcrack Boulder T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pollen Junkies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spider Biter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Straight Shot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | James Debella/Eric Bretthauer |
| Page Views: | 1,442 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Rockbanned brett on Oct 23, 2012 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
Fifteen feet right of Pollen Junkies is a huge corner thats marked by a series of roofs (50 yards or so left of Black Market). Spider Biter ascends the corner left of the huge roof. Start at a high finger crack that begins in the roof just left of the giant slab. Climb the finger crack to the base of the corner. Climb the corner to the base of the first roof (double zero). An airy traverse followed by a short lay back gives way to a good (but difficult to see) foot on the arête. Climb a few more feet to a good shelf with a slung pine tree directly above.
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