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Routes in Palmer Gulch
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Keelhaul T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Mr. November Too T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. October Also T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Secrets Between Sailors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sing Me Spanish Techno S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Spicy Thai Tuna T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Yak Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed V1 V0-1 4+ |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mike McNeil and John Hinrichs |
| Page Views: | 1,081 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Mike McNeil on Oct 19, 2014 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Climb into gully at the start of Mr. October Two and go right at the spectacular handcrack that slants to the right and set up belay under the roof 5.8 170ft. Traverse left ten feet to a sweet hand and finger crack and pull roof to the left. Go up huge chimney finding nice small gear in the face until you can place a 5 camalot in the large crack . Continue up the crack to set up a belay on a nice ledge 5.8 140ft. On pitch three traverse right place gear and then down climb10 feet and traverse around the corner past two vertical cracks that provide good hand jams to access the large chimney section to the right. climb up walking your gear for 20ft to protect the second on the traverse. Continue up the chimney placing small gear in the back of the chimney until you get to a tight squeeze. At this pint place a 3/4 inch piece down climb five fee and traverse out to the edge and climb the arête till past the squeeze. Continue up the chimney on easier climbing to the top 5.9 190ft.
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