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Mokuleia Wall
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Spice of Life 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,054
Submitted By: Matt Nelson on Jun 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Me on the first crux

Description 

Route climbs a shallow dihedral passing three cruxes. First crux is a thin hands/ off fingers crack. The seconds surmounts a small roof with good jams above. The third crux is reminiscent of the the last pitch of Swansons Arete, a super thin crack in an open book that disappears into a blank face. The whole route is well protected, albeit not by the cracks but by bolts.

Protection 

Sport


Photos of Spice of Life Slideshow Add Photo
The beginning of the route
The beginning of the route
First crux
First crux
Second crux, small roof to pull
Second crux, small roof to pull

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By Christopher Biese
From: Anchorage
Mar 30, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CONDITION REPORT 
An excellent climb for sure, I found the top to be a bit of a stumper.. but you'll get it with some persistance. LOTS of bird poo, be sure to bring some sanitizer or wipes with you. We also ran into a nest on the ledge with some fresh babies in it, gave me a bit of a scare when I first saw it!
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Very fun climb with a wide variety of climbing styles. Crack lie backs, mantles, stemming, smearing; it's got it all. The top is definitely the hardest part, I thought, but that could be bc I wasn't stemming enough. There is a huge ledge where some birds used to nest, or at least it appears that way, where the last crux starts. Hard core stemming up the last ten or so feet to the chains.
By w.y.hummel
Jan 14, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great climb. Difficult for the grade, especially if (like me), stemming and laybacks are not your strongest skills.

Don't give up at the top. It looks impossible, and it's certainly the most difficult part (especially because you're pumped by then).
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