Route climbs a shallow dihedral passing three cruxes. First crux is a thin hands/ off fingers crack. The seconds surmounts a small roof with good jams above. The third crux is reminiscent of the the last pitch of Swansons Arete, a super thin crack in an open book that disappears into a blank face. The whole route is well protected, albeit not by the cracks but by bolts.
From the top of the trail go left (east). Pass the box with carpeting. Find the top rope string that has the name of the route on it.
Bolts and can be supplemented by small gear
The beginning of the route
Second crux, small roof to pull
|By Nich Cloward|
From: American Fork
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Very fun climb with a wide variety of climbing styles. Crack lie backs, mantles, stemming, smearing; it's got it all. The top is definitely the hardest part, I thought, but that could be bc I wasn't stemming enough. There is a huge ledge where some birds used to nest, or at least it appears that way, where the last crux starts. Hard core stemming up the last ten or so feet to the chains.
Jan 14, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great climb. Difficult for the grade, especially if (like me), stemming and laybacks are not your strongest skills.
Don't give up at the top. It looks impossible, and it's certainly the most difficult part (especially because you're pumped by then).