Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Headwall
Select Route:
Cameltoe S 
Curious George S 
Donamatrix S 
Ghastly Rubberfat S 
Headwall Route S 
Rain of Terror S 
Rappel Gully T 
Sleazy Street S 
Spice Box S 
Walk Up, The S 

Spice Box 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Trainor, Manny Rangel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,210
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
David S. nears end of Spicebox, Larry E. belays at...

Description 

I liked the first bolt on pitch two, it protects groundfall potential on a ramp and the 3rd bolt is on great rock for clipping. Right after that it gets steep and cruxy. Well bolted and on great rock, it is one of the best I have been on in camelback.

It is next to one of the scariest routes on camelback, The Icebox 5.8x. It actually shares one of the bolts up high. The Icebox is the dihedral, very soft rock, just to this route's left.

Location 

Walk to the end of the Headwall and begin on the white granite just right of the dihedral/gully. P1 has 2 bolts, p2 has 12 bolts, p3 has 3 (?). Rap the route with single 60m rope. If you rap from the top, the first rap is a short one to the top of the 2nd pitch. Watch the ends at the second/longest rap.

Protection 

12 quickdraws/runners, ss glue-in bolts and anchors.


Comments on Spice Box Add Comment
Show which comments
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Best climb on Camelback! If soloing, don't use lower bolts for bottom pro with 60 m rope as it's a long way down...
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 11, 2009

I would recommend a 70m rope or doubles to ensure a safe return to the ground from the longest/2nd pitch.

My 4 star rating is based on other Camelback routes only.
By bsocks
From: Peoria, AZ
Dec 4, 2009

Fun climb, did not seem 5.10 quality. Middle of second pitch is crux. The rock will push you right, stay to the left and follow the bolts.
By Nat Shultz
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 21, 2010

Super fun route. The best I've climbed on Camelback yet. Most quality rock as well. I'd call it a soft 5.10 and well protected. Have no reservations about it, just climb it an enjoy. A single 60m rope works great for the rap if you do it in 3.

Go get on it! Viva Camelback! And thanks Manny for another clasic!
By Trev
From: Maricopa, AZ
Oct 27, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb for camelback, i don't know if i would put a 5.10b rating on this. I used a 70m rope because of the second pitch. I would not use a 60m, That would be cutting it kinda close.
By ldsclimber
From: Queen Creek AZ
Nov 23, 2010

Kudos to the FAs!! its a quality route for camel back. good work!! For the valley i'd say its a must at that grade.
By Kaleo
Feb 5, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun Route, bolts are good, well protected. Thanks for the climb!

We rappelled with a 60m from the bolts at the top of pitch 2, just made it to the ground.