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The Sphinx
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Sphinx Traverse 

Sphinx Traverse 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: K. Henderson and R. Underhill, 1929
Season: Summer
Page Views: 923
Submitted By: George Bell on Mar 5, 2007
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I'm pretty certain this is the route the poster wa...


This route begins from the col between Skyline Peak and the Sphinx. It is much more alpine to approach this col from the Dinwoody Glacier side, which involves glacier travel and crossing a bergschrund. However, I believe we gained the col from the SW (Titcomb Basin).

From the col you are faced with a 600 foot high step. Stay left for a pitch, then traverse right back onto the crest. Above the step are several gendarmes that you will have to figure out how to get past. Be sure to yodel to startle the parties crossing the glacier below on their way to Gannett Peak.

This route looks really cool from below but if you are expecting another Wolf's Head think again. The ridge is not as knife-like and the rock is not as solid, but the position is great.

From the summit, descend the NW Ridge (5.1), which may involve a rappel. You can then descend either to the Dinwoody Glacier side or to Titcomb Basin. However, decending north may require jumping a bergschrund (rather memorable on the FA).


Light rack.

Photos of Sphinx Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
A smoky traverse of one the gendarmes.
A smoky traverse of one the gendarmes.
The Sphinx from Sphinx Glacier showing the mellow descent ridge on the left.
The Sphinx from Sphinx Glacier showing the mellow ...
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