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Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff Hanger)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Hood in the Good S 
Continuum S 
Crimp-Tick Combination S 
Elohim S 
Ground Control to Major McNeely T 
HemoToxin S 
Hippie Chicks Can't Dance S 
NeuroToxin S 
Old School T 
Queen of Deception S 
Rock like an Egyptian  S 
Sharp-end Dagger, The S 
She Gave Him Blue Bolts S,TR 
Space S 
Sunshine Flurries S 
Time S 
Walk like an E-kryption S 
Winds Desire S 

Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff Hanger)  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 34.2271, -117.2543 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,525
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kristoffer on Feb 2, 2006
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This south-facing crag overlooks the city far below, and while it tends to be a bit windy, it's still very nice.
The granite is a bit chossy at the base of the cliff due to fire damage, but nothing too serious.

Getting There 

Drive Hwy 18 to the Cliffhanger restaurant and park several hundred feet down the road in a large pullout, and then walk along side the road until you see a faint climbers trail leading to the crag.

Climbing Season

For the San Bernardino Mountains area.

Weather station 0.5 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff Hanger):
NeuroToxin   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Crimp-Tick Combination   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   
She Gave Him Blue Bolts   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff Hanger)

Featured Route For Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff Hanger)
Topo for the Hood

All Hood in the Good 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff ...
Easy face climbing leads to a low deceptive crux ( mantle the slab with slightly overhanging face devoid of *obvious holds. After that, have fun trying to clip the single perma draw hanging from the roof. Pull the roof and you are home free as long as you stay on route ( don't stray to the hemotoxin trough. Although these climbs start no where near each other, they do become very squeezed in upper sections....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff Hanger) Slideshow Add Photo
photo by Victor Ramirez
photo by Victor Ramirez
A hazy view of San Bernardino from atop Sphinx Roc...
A hazy view of San Bernardino from atop Sphinx Roc...
Topo for all areas
BETA PHOTO: Topo for all areas
Erin at the base of the Powermyd wall.
Erin at the base of the Powermyd wall.
Workable topo of the Sphinx- Hopefully helpful.. n...
BETA PHOTO: Workable topo of the Sphinx- Hopefully helpful.. n...
Hiking/Climbing down to the heart of Sphinx Rock
Hiking/Climbing down to the heart of Sphinx Rock
East side of Sphinx Rock, Blue Bolts Wall
BETA PHOTO: East side of Sphinx Rock, Blue Bolts Wall
Beta and info is limited here, so I thought a map ...
BETA PHOTO: Beta and info is limited here, so I thought a map ...
A view of the western face of Sphinx Rock from the...
A view of the western face of Sphinx Rock from the...
South Side of Pyramid Rock, Powermyd Wall
BETA PHOTO: South Side of Pyramid Rock, Powermyd Wall

Comments on Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff Hanger) Add Comment
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By Jon lindquist
Mar 3, 2014
Cliffhanger crag is going through some changes. These are my notes, please enjoy, and respect.
thank you.

coming up hywy 18 from 10/ 215/waterman rd.
pull out and park in the pull out on the right past the cliffhanger hotel, across the street from the furniture store, just before the traffic signal to lake Gregory. back up behind the guard rail, please leave room for emergency traffic and fill in the farthest edge, both sides of the road are snow chain equipping areas.
Available parking is limited, please do not over crowd.

>>Climber trail::
Do not cross the guard rail and walk to the hotel!!
the owner has requested we no longer go near the hotel after the recent renovations.
Instead walk up the road slightly and on your left you will drop into a poorly maintained single track trail, next to some large rocks.

>>Climbing list::

Starting from farthest wall closest to the cliffhanger hotel.


>>>Royals wall:

> the sharp-end dagger.
5.5, 5 bolts, 2 chains, trad optional poor placements.
Climb Left wall and sharp dihedral.
Fa Jon/Brent

> thief in the knight.
5.9, same 5 bolts, and 2 chains
Climb Slab only stay generally right of bolts, left wall, and dihedral lie back off.
FA Jon/ brent

> queen of deception.
5.7, 5 bolts, same 2 chains
Climb Center slab, using the second bolt of "THOTH" near right arÍte, then back to center slab, 3 bolts to top.
FA joe d ?

>king of inception.
5.8, 5 bolts, same 2 chains.
Climb Center slab, do not wander too far left or right.
FA Brent/Jon

>Tricky Horus of the twin horizons. "THOTH"
5.10-, 5 bolts, 2chains
Climb Left slab and right arÍte, starting on low overhanging blocks.
FA Jon /Brent

>>>powermyd wall

>Rock like an Egyptian
5.10c/d, 10 bolts, 2chains
Left arÍte and face, try not to round the corner and climb "THOTH"
FA Jon/Brent

>sunshine flurries
5.10 b/c finishing on "WLE"
5.11c/d straight out.
Trad optional rated R
10 bolts, 2 chains
Climb prominent center flailing crack to center face.
FA Gary/Brent

>walk like an E-kryption. "WLE"
5.11a/b, 9 bolts, 2chains
Climb Right face to right arÍte.
FA Jon / bolts and belay Brent

>>> inner temple wall.

> crimp-tick combination.
5.10 a/b, 9 bolts, 2chains.
Start in overhang lie back crack to left most slab and left arÍte.
FA Jon/Brent

> sole food
5.9+ 8 bolts, 2 chains. Trad optional rated R.
Start on block above access chains, climb center slab.
FA Jon/Brent

>"OG "cornered out.
5.7. trad, 2 chains
Climb obvious right corner crack system to two chains.
FA ???


>>> blue bolts wall ( across from inner temple wall.

> Mukat, and the fiery arrowhead in the sky.
5.8+ 8 bolts, 2chains
Climb left corner to mid block anchor.
FA Jon/Brent

>the bread loaf
5.10 a, 9 bolts, 2chains
Climb middle face to mid block anchor.
FA dave k/ bolted by Jon

>Lichen this
5.3 , 2 bolts cross two anchors.
From the mid level block traverse the obvious ledges out right to the top of sphynx rock.

> she gave me blue bolts
5.10 c 12 bolts, 2chain
Climb left arÍte to mid Lvl, then climb thin seam above mid Lvl anchor block to chains.
FA Jason m/ Kim

>>> early bird wall

> Elohim
5.10 d, 12 bolts, 2chains.
Left arÍte to steep face after mid Lvl.
Fa Brent/ Gary

5.11 b/c 12 bolts, 2 chains,
climb face just right of Elohim, climb right side arÍte and face to chains.
FA Brent/ Gary

>"OG" old school
5.14? 15 bolts 2chains
Climb slab to steep overhanging finger crack.
credit to joe d for initial bolts. Brent for additional bolts at start.

> "Toxic avenger". 5.13c/d
same as old school tops out on nephaplim
FA Jason/Jon

> heart breaker machine
5.12 b/c, 14 bolts, 2 chains
Climb slab to two sections of steep face.
FA Gary/Brent -second Jason /Jon

>>> arrowhead lookout wall

> room with out a roof
5.12 a/b, 11 bolts 2 chains
Climb left overhanging trough to steep face left of hemotoxin.
FA Gary/Brent

>Neuro toxin/ hemotoxin "og"
5.10 c/d // 5.12( need work)
9 bolts 2 chains
Climb right over hanging trough to steep dihedral out.
Fa joe d ?

> all hood in the good
5.11 d 8 bolts 2 chains
Climb side boulder on climbers right to first bolt, and face just right of hemotoxin, top out the steep gun safe arÍte on right side. the top out of hemotoxin is off.
FA Brent/Gary

>>> kosmos wall

> space ( old rated r/x A3 5.6 ground control to major mknelly) aid gear cleaned.
5.11 a/b
10 bolts 2 chains
left face just after the tunnel from arrowhead lookout wall.
FA Brent/ Gary

5.12 c/d, 10 bolts, 2chains
Climb center face, right block of time off, follow left bolts after second bolt.
FA Gary/ Brent.

5.10d 10bolts, 2chains.
Climb right face right block on. Follow right bolts after second bolt.
FA Brent/Gary.

>>> necropolis.

>Pizza lunchables 5.11 c/d 5 bolts 2chains
climb left corner of steep arÍte.
FA Jason m/ Brent

>winds desire
5.11a 4 bolts 2 chains
Climb right side arÍte next to "HC"
FA Brent/ Jason/ Kim

>Hippie chicks "HC"
5.10 c 4 bolts 2 chains
Climb left slab straight.

>ra's reach
5.11b 4 bolts, 2 chains
Climb right most bolts through undercling side pulls to 2 large reaches.
By brentjw2
May 21, 2015
What is the approach time from the parking lot to the crag?
By Mikey Wally
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 1, 2015
approach time is 1 to 2 minutes
By Hanzel
Aug 26, 2015
KNOTTED CLIMBING ROPE HAS BEEN REPLACED 08/22/15. Don't know what happened to the previous rope, but it was gone. The group used a retired "tagged out" rope from a local summer camp, thick static line about 1/2" diameter. It really helps in the down/up climb. Rope is tied through 2 fixed bolted anchors without using carabiners or quick-links or webbing. Not entirely proper or ideal anchor placement, but I am not complaining, it certainly helps a ton, especially with a heavy backpack on. I recommend using it as an aid only (don't put your life on it). It's an easy scramble and the danger is minimal, no worries. Thanks to the group who did this last Sunday!
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