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Larry Hamilton on the intitial 5.8 crack. Photo b...
This route is the most popular route on the West side of Sports Challenge rock. You can probably find it by just getting in the longest line, but in case you arrive first...Find the left hand end of the W face of Sports Challenge Rock, this will require a small amount of scrambling to reach. P1: Climb up a curving crack and up left onto the top of a small tower, which at the top is not attached to the cliff. A fist-sized cam can be placed as the "last good pro" before reaching this point. Step up and right off of the pedistal to seams out on the main face. Some protection could be had here (S) but placing it out of the crux seems sillier than just running it out a little more to reach a better stance. Most of the holds here are positive, but the climb is not suited to pushing your limits. Continue up this crack to a horizontal rack, then right to another crack and up to a lege just below the summit. Climb onto the summit and belay.To descend, rap from the bolts on the summit (above Rap Bolters Are Weak), or scramble down to the south.
Note- the old guidebook (1992 edition) misnumbers the topo/photo, so beware...
A set of nuts and a set of cams from TCU's to 3".
BETA PHOTO: The west face of Sports Challenge Rock as seen fro...
Ginger on Sphincter Quits, Joshua Tree
Considering the scary and committing move onto the...
The wind was howling and the entry to the thin cra...
Working into the crux after just placing a little ...
|Comments on Sphincter Quits
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 12, 2003
Bolt on original (5.10) variation replaced 3/00.
|By Chris Re|
From: Boise, ID
Apr 8, 2003
I found that a red lowball protects the crack well. I can place it in the crack before making a move out on face. Great Climb!!!
Dec 2, 2003
On the FA Dave lead up the initial crack, then placed 1 bolt on face up and left of the thin crack and climbed this (10a/b). I followed by unclipping the bolt and then climbing up the thin crack (the way it is most commonly done now). Not really sure who did the first lead of the thin crack.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 2, 2004
I recall slinging a horn that "protected" moving right into the crack quite well. Little stoppers and a 00 TCU would be helpful. Definitely a sandbag at 5.9, but one I can appreciate.
|By Woody Stark|
Jan 15, 2005
A superb route but very tricky to place reasonable pro in the lower portion of the upper crack. I'm glad to read about the low ball. Sandbagged at nine for sure.
|By Woody Stark|
May 7, 2005
I used a #4 Ballnut to protect the crux on the upper crack today, and it worked fine. I tested it with my full body weight. It did twist out when the second came up due to the angle of the lower rope pull. Sling it to avoid this. Be sure to place pro under the capstone at the top of the first crack just in case. The upper crack is most definitely 10a.
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 30, 2005
I thought this one was a classic. Puta madre!
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.9+ R
I got on this climb expecting a mellow, fun 5.9 up a pretty section of rock. Though the pretty part was true, I found that I severely underestimated this one. The pro at the start of the seam was very bad (a small HB offset) and it took me a while to commit to the moves. Once on the seam, however, the pro gets better, and the climbing remains thought-provoking until the top. This was a great route that really pushed my comfort level.
|By David Wang|
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 28, 2007
rating: 5.9+ PG13
aptly named, especially if you find yourself trying to wiggle in wires at the crux (did not work for me). Blue aliens and blue TCU worked towards the middle of the seam, a little higher you can get a yellow alien in. Feels a bit harder than 5.9 with the gear wankery.
Jun 29, 2008
This is a great climb. Smaller pro for sure but totally safe. A couple small cams and nuts is all you need.
|By Nick Barczak|
May 4, 2009
I guess I'm the only one who didn't think this was a sandbag. I felt it was no harder than 5.9. The move out onto the upper crack is nicely protected with a solid #4 BD micronut. I felt the climbing was thoughtful, but never very strenuous. Protects well with small stoppers/cams.
|By Rafael Rovirosa|
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 15, 2012
Cool climb. Neither hard to protect nor sandbagged at 5.9. The move off the ledge is a bit heady.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Aug 24, 2012
I'd agree that it is no harder than 5.9. The pro off the ledge is not inspiring in the least though, perhaps leading to a perception of the climb being harder. Personally, I would not want to test the protection there in the least, but you can call it well protected if you want.
|By Trad Nanny|
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.9+ PG13
5.9 moves and if you get lucky with the gear it protects just fine.
|By Nelson Day|
From: Victorville, CA
Jan 2, 2013
A blue ball nut protects the move out right into the crack from the first ledge beautifully and without run out. Nothing else I tried to put in worked. I would have felt confident whipping on the blue ball nut for sure!
|By Nikki Schnupp|
From: Hudson, Ohio
Feb 20, 2013
Protects well with small cams. Slung the chicken head before moving around on to the second crack.