Sphincter Quits 

Bolt on original (5.10) variation replaced 3/00.

I found that a red lowball protects the crack well. I can place it in the crack before making a move out on face. Great Climb!!!

On the FA Dave lead up the initial crack, then placed 1 bolt on face up and left of the thin crack and climbed this (10a/b). I followed by unclipping the bolt and then climbing up the thin crack (the way it is most commonly done now). Not really sure who did the first lead of the thin crack.

I recall slinging a horn that "protected" moving right into the crack quite well. Little stoppers and a 00 TCU would be helpful. Definitely a sandbag at 5.9, but one I can appreciate.

A superb route but very tricky to place reasonable pro in the lower portion of the upper crack. I'm glad to read about the low ball. Sandbagged at nine for sure.

I used a #4 Ballnut to protect the crux on the upper crack today, and it worked fine. I tested it with my full body weight. It did twist out when the second came up due to the angle of the lower rope pull. Sling it to avoid this. Be sure to place pro under the capstone at the top of the first crack just in case. The upper crack is most definitely 10a.

I thought this one was a classic. Puta madre!

I got on this climb expecting a mellow, fun 5.9 up a pretty section of rock. Though the pretty part was true, I found that I severely underestimated this one. The pro at the start of the seam was very bad (a small HB offset) and it took me a while to commit to the moves. Once on the seam, however, the pro gets better, and the climbing remains thought-provoking until the top. This was a great route that really pushed my comfort level.

aptly named, especially if you find yourself trying to wiggle in wires at the crux (did not work for me). Blue aliens and blue TCU worked towards the middle of the seam, a little higher you can get a yellow alien in. Feels a bit harder than 5.9 with the gear wankery.

This is a great climb. Smaller pro for sure but totally safe. A couple small cams and nuts is all you need.

I guess I'm the only one who didn't think this was a sandbag. I felt it was no harder than 5.9. The move out onto the upper crack is nicely protected with a solid #4 BD micronut. I felt the climbing was thoughtful, but never very strenuous. Protects well with small stoppers/cams.

Cool climb. Neither hard to protect nor sandbagged at 5.9. The move off the ledge is a bit heady.

I'd agree that it is no harder than 5.9. The pro off the ledge is not inspiring in the least though, perhaps leading to a perception of the climb being harder. Personally, I would not want to test the protection there in the least, but you can call it well protected if you want.

5.9 moves and if you get lucky with the gear it protects just fine.

A blue ball nut protects the move out right into the crack from the first ledge beautifully and without run out. Nothing else I tried to put in worked. I would have felt confident whipping on the blue ball nut for sure!

Protects well with small cams. Slung the chicken head before moving around on to the second crack.