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The name pays homage to the original title of the line to the immediate right when it was an aid route (there must be an ugly story behind that name!) That line was renamed to the play on words, Few Species, when John Steiger freed it. Now the dreadful imagery of the original name can be relived again. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)
This climb begins by ascending the buttress between Furchrissakes and Few Species, and finishes on the headwall above the ledges where all three lines converge. Locate a thin fingercrack that opens up above a small roof, 15 feet above the ground. Start in a weakness below the small roof. The route can be enjoyably lead in one pitch, but most will do it in two pitches.
Pitch 1 – Climb up to the fingercrack, using small protection found just above the small roof. Ascend the strenuous thin crack to a stance below a blocky roof, with a bolt above. Continue up and right to another short section of fingercrack. Move up the buttress above, passing three more bolts, and enter the flared slot with a good crack in the back. 10 feet up this feature is a small stance and an anchor. (This pitch can be easily top-roped from the anchors for Furchristsakes, and makes a fun challenge.) 5.11, 4 bolts, pro to 2˝”, 90 feet.
Pitch 2 – Climb up to a small ledge (Furchrissakes’ and Few Species’ original gear belays are just up and left of here on the large ledge), below a pair of parallel, right leaning cracks. Climb the right crack to its end, where four bolts protect steep face climbing to the top anchors. 5.10, 4 bolts, pro to 2”, 65 feet
8 bolts, pro to 2.5", anchors.
Approximately 12 feet right of Furchrissakes, and 8 feet left of Few Species. Belay from the small, grassy ledge just below where the wall steepens to vertical.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 14, 2014
Wanders back and forth a lot as well as into Few Species a couple of times. Feels very forced and this was really annoying to me. Save this for when you have nothing left to do.