Speed 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Achey? |
| Submitted By: | Alvaro Arnal on Nov 18, 2012 |
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Description Climb leisurely past some reaches to good holds through the first 3 bolts until you arrive at a large undercling and the start of the crux. Bigger pulls to smaller holds through the 4th bolt will deposit you a a good horizontal and rest. Get back whatever you can because the next section past 3 pins is another 11+ crux topped by an airy mantle to the chains. This route is a little dirty but has great movement throughout; so 2+ stars seems good.
Location Start just to the right of Hope. Look for 4 bolts that lead up to a pin-protected overhang. Only 2 of the 3 pins are visible from the ground. There is another pin in the left-facing corner that you clip from the horizontal after the crux.
Protection 4 bolts, 3 pins; chain anchor.
By Alvaro Arnal Administrator From: Aspen, CO Nov 24, 2012
| This route is listed at 12a in the guide, but I think it's harder than that. For me, it's certainly harder than Shapeshifter (further down on the cliff) which is a soft 12b. |
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