Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Pup Tent of Solitude
Black Diamond Chaos Climbing Harness

$124.95 30% off

$86.95

at USOutdoorStr

1 1966    more...
Petzl Fuse Dry Climbing Rope - 9.4mm

$235.00 25% off

$176.25

at Backcountry

3    more...
BLACK DIAMOND C4 Camalot, # 1

$64.95 25% off

$48.71

at EMS

34    more...
Togir Slide Harness

$79.95 29% off

$55.97

at CampSaver

7    more...
Kelty Gunnison 4.2 Footprint

$59.99 25% off

$44.99

at AlsSports

   more...
BLACK DIAMOND Nitro Backpack

$119.95 24% off

$89.98

at EMS

46    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aloha 
Beer, Bolts, & Trundeled Boulders (BBTB) 
Canyon Wren 
Close to the Bone 
Country Style Pork Rib 
Craptonite 
Dark Side 
Deputy Dawg 
Disturbed Susan 
Easier 
Easiest 
Easy 
Eternity 
Ewok Stew 
First Blood  
Fist of Elder 
Gatehouse of Loneliness 
Girls With Guns 
Hanu 
Hope 
Ides of March 
Jennifer's World 
Magical Handhold 
Nickelpup, The 
Nose Picking Good 
Puppy Love 
Puppy Power 
Red Breasts and Hot Wings 
Rex Luthor 
Shapeshifter 
Sith Lord 
Speed 
Step Up To The Flake 
Subprime 
Subtle Knife 
Thin and Crispy 
Tooth or Consequences 
Total Eclipse 

Speed 

5.12b

   
109 page views
Good page?   

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
FA: Jeff Achey?
Submitted By: Alvaro Arnal on Nov 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Climb leisurely past some reaches to good holds through the first 3 bolts until you arrive at a large undercling and the start of the crux. Bigger pulls to smaller holds through the 4th bolt will deposit you a a good horizontal and rest. Get back whatever you can because the next section past 3 pins is another 11+ crux topped by an airy mantle to the chains.

This route is a little dirty but has great movement throughout; so 2+ stars seems good.


Location 

Start just to the right of Hope. Look for 4 bolts that lead up to a pin-protected overhang. Only 2 of the 3 pins are visible from the ground. There is another pin in the left-facing corner that you clip from the horizontal after the crux.


Protection 

4 bolts, 3 pins; chain anchor.



Comments on Speed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Nov 24, 2012

This route is listed at 12a in the guide, but I think it's harder than that. For me, it's certainly harder than Shapeshifter (further down on the cliff) which is a soft 12b.