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The Speed Trap
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mach 5 S 
Neon Leon S 
Nitrous Oxide S 
Speed Racer S 
Speed Trap S 

Speed Trap 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Steve Carruthers, Jim Howe, 1990
Page Views: 1,294
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Tenesmus gliding up the wall.


Fire up the steep face on the right side of the wall. Move, move, and fight the pump.

Clip the first three bolts of Mach 5 and break towards a fourth bolt to the right. Get your one and only mediocre rest then jump for a thin edge. Stick this move and continue up past two more bolts picking a part the last 15 feet. Eat a light lunch, its a very powerful route.

A few big holds, a dead point, plenty of crimps, and a gaston! Hard if you're tall, hard if you're short, its no gimmie.


In the midle of the wall, Speed Trap starts on the first two bolts of Mach 5 and finishes at the right most visible anchor.


Six bolts to an anchor.

Photos of Speed Trap Slideshow Add Photo
Better beta. But, don't look at this picture and r...
Better beta. But, don't look at this picture and r...
Mike approaching the business...
Mike approaching the business...
Mike's twisted beta...
Mike's twisted beta...
Beta which, as far as I know, has yet to see a red...
Beta which, as far as I know, has yet to see a red...
At the top.
At the top.

Comments on Speed Trap Add Comment
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By Fett
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The last 15-20 feet feels like 2 V4 moves with some good crimps in between. The Gaston move is hard to balance and taxing. Good clipping stances... fun stuff. Seems like it would be hard for shorter people
By tenesmus
Aug 11, 2010

That gaston move is burly for tall people and the tall man beta makes the second problem feel a lot easier than v4. Nice pics Spreadsheet.
By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 20, 2012

Really cool! Easy until the last few moves. Felt like solid .12c to me.
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