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Ultraman 

Speed Racer 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,007
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 11, 2003
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View of Speed Racer from uphill.

Description 

This climb starts 50ft to the right of Ultraman 5.8+. The climb starts in a left facing corner in black varnish. A small piece can be placed to protect getting to the first bolt. Follow a total of 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The climbing is just a good as Ultraman, and a little more runout. There is groundfall potential between 30-40ft on the route. Be careful.

Rap with to ropes.


Protection 

Draws, option small cam low on the route



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By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Nov 27, 2006

I led this the other day and compared to Clutch Cargo, I thought this one was less secure and more sustained. The route is very long, the bolts are a long ways apart, and the moves are classic palms down slab-I really liked this route.

By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 3, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Superb route but will need some new bolts sometime soon as a couple of them are sticking out from the wall a wee bit. Speed Racer is like Ultraman on the small slabby stuff that's insecure and super fun; great route just don't fall. Maybe a PG 13 rating but no way that is a "X" rating in my book. Awesome Slabba Dabba (must) Do

By ashcan
Jan 31, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c X

I would call this an X if you are not totally competent with 5.6ish climbing (the harder stuff is protected). Also the 2nd bolt B4 the long run-out section is loose.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jan 31, 2007

The "X" rating is for the ground fall potential between 30-40ft. I remember looking down after clipping the 2nd? bolt and seeing the ground fall potential. A "PG-13" rating is a sandbag on this one. The climbing is easy, but holds do break.

After clipping the bolt at the 30-40ft level, there are enough bolts to keep a "PG-13" or "R" rating.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 15, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

5.8 - very nice sustained smearing moves past the last few bolts.

Not an X - remember that the potential for a fall takes into account the difficulty of the climbing - the big runout is quite casual, and actually fun with the runout. I'd be more worried about getting up to the first bolt - after all, the opening gear placement(s) are in sandstone.

2 ropes needed to reach the ground.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 3, 2010

On Feb 3rd, 2010, the LVCLC replaced 8 protection bolts and the anchor (2 bolts) on this route. All new bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece with Fixe hangers.

By Sol Cantwell
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c X

This is UBER classic and super run out. With all the safe 5.8's in this place go somewhere else if you are just starting to lead 5.8 or 5.9. A 60m rope will not get you to the bottom if you go all the way to the top, you can walk off to the left pretty easily though. I was FREAKED out. This route does have ground fall potential. Others have said a PG-13 rating.. .I guess if you don't hit your head its PG13 because you only break your leg or back...

By BarryO
Jan 5, 2013

from the hand traverse heading to the first bolt to the top a great sustained route!! great crack at base for belayer pro. runout for sure but lays out nicely.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jan 12, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I was told by a longtime local that this route was lead on gear before it was bolted.