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 ADVANCED
Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M / B&D T 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Three Strikes T 
Unknown Right Arete T 

Speed is of the Essence 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: FRA Stuart and Bret Ruckman 1985
Page Views: 778
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Aug 21, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...

Description 

This is the obvious 6-inch crack in the left facing corner to the right of Tax Evasion and Climb and Punishment.

Contrary to the route name, speed is not of the essence, it is much better perhaps to take your time and look for good pro, use caution with the placements during the first half of the climb as there is a lot of junky rock. Stemming works better than lie-backing for this climb, in my opinion.

This climb is worth doing if you are in the area and have the time, but it is definitely only one star.

Descent: We traversed left to the slings above Climb and Punishment, use your best judgement.

Protection 

Standard trad rack works.


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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 7, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Correct, this route is better stemmed than liebacked (except at the crux about 20 feet up). There are a bunch of slings 30-40 feet up from the "top" of the route.
By Tryhard
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 5, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a fun climb - every bit as good as Tax Evasion, if not better. I only had a single set of C4s through #4. There were alternate gear options that worked well enough, but I would have liked to have had one or two #5s with me.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 5, 2014

This route can gobble up some bigger gear though there is places for smaller pieces if you look. Fairly easy to traverse to the new chains just above Tax Evasion. Has a tiny bit of punky rock, but overall great quality.