Speed is of the Essence
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...
This is the obvious 6-inch crack in the left facing corner to the right of Tax Evasion and Climb and Punishment.
Contrary to the route name, speed is not of the essence, it is much better perhaps to take your time and look for good pro, use caution with the placements during the first half of the climb as there is a lot of junky rock. Stemming works better than lie-backing for this climb, in my opinion.
This climb is worth doing if you are in the area and have the time, but it is definitely only one star.
Descent: We traversed left to the slings above Climb and Punishment, use your best judgement.
Standard trad rack works.
|Comments on Speed is of the Essence
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 7, 2006
Correct, this route is better stemmed than liebacked (except at the crux about 20 feet up). There are a bunch of slings 30-40 feet up from the "top" of the route.
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 5, 2010
This is a fun climb - every bit as good as Tax Evasion, if not better. I only had a single set of C4s through #4. There were alternate gear options that worked well enough, but I would have liked to have had one or two #5s with me.