Mike sent this today with myself soon after. He named it "Speechless".
It is CLASSIC, 4 stars. Start with your right hand on the arete and your left down low on a under-cling, tall people will be able to grab a pinch with their left to start. Swing right around the arete to a good side pull, then heel hook and smear to gain a nice sloper rail. Gun for the top.
By Mr. Mix From: Sauk City, WI Jun 26, 2011 rating: V56C
This route has it all: Great quality rock, great sustained movement, heel hooks, crimps, slopers, a descent landing all at a perfect height. A four star route anywhere! Video misses the start on the left side of arete.