Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Specter Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apparition 
Casper the Friendly Ghost 
Specter 

Specter 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Brian Smoot, Mike Perkins
New Route: Yes
Season: spring summer fall
Page Views: 1,740
Submitted By: tenesmus on Sep 4, 2010
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Specter topo

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This is a nice line. A steep crux, a vertical crux, an off-vertical crux. Some of the best, most crisp crimps I've laid hands on.

AKA: Black Power


Location 

Look for the black chain/bolt anchor below the black streak. You won't be able to see the climber on the upper crux from here so we added a two bolt belay off to the left on a good ledge. If you go over there, please watch your rope carefully as you lower and clean (especially the bottom bolt).
Alternatively, we added a belay 25 feet left on a ledge that allows you to see the climber for the whole climb. I haven't belayed this climb from over there but its just an option.


Protection 

10 or 12 bolts to a bolted belay. Bring a couple of long runners for the middle and start. 70M rope to descend.



Comments on Specter Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 3, 2014
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 4, 2010

Its Black Power...its rad...and its no handbag!

By tenesmus
Sep 5, 2010


Its Specter.

Of course, you could think of it like this:

By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 5, 2010

Jules: Describe what Marsellus Wallace looks like!
Brett: What?
Jules: Say 'what' again. Say 'what' again, I dare you, I double dare you motherfucker, say what one more Goddamn time!

By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 5, 2010

Jules: Mmm-mmmm. That is a tasty burger. Vincent, ever have a Big Kahuna Burger?
[Vincent shakes his head]
Jules: Wanna bite? They're real tasty.
Vincent: Ain't hungry.
Jules: Well, if you like burgers give 'em a try sometime. I can't usually get 'em myself because my girlfriend's a vegitarian which pretty much makes me a vegitarian. But I do love the taste of a good burger. Mm-mm-mm. You know what they call a Quarter Pounder with cheese in France?
Brett: No.
Jules: Tell 'em, Vincent.
Vincent: A Royale with cheese.
Jules: A Royale with cheese! You know why they call it that?
Brett: Because of the metric system?
Jules: Check out the big brain on Brett! You're a smart motherfucker. That's right. The metric system.

By vacano
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Full on "porn star" route! (per Ten Sleep guide scale)

By John Steiger
Aug 15, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

One of the very best pitches Iíve done in Utah (at least those I remember). It has it all, great rock, super position, superlative setting, well-bolted, and really tricky cruxes that keep coming. I could see this being 11d if one were well-tuned on steep slab, but Iím not, soÖ Uh, Ten -- 5.11c, really?

By tenesmus
Aug 27, 2012

As this route has gotten more traffic the feedback is that its probably, "Really friendly 5.12" so I guess it should be graded .12a. Psyched people are coming up here.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Aug 28, 2012

  • mental note* - tenesmus is a sandbagger...

By John Steiger
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

It might have something to do with Tenís NBA-small-forward height, but sandbagging does seem to be popular among some of the current crop of LCC first ascensionists (cough, Andy Ross, cough).

By grk10vq
Administrator
Aug 29, 2012

I heard the British climb with rockets in their pants?

-Fight Grade Creep-

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Very nice route. Nothing to complain about other than a few strangely-placed bolts and the mega-sandbag rating on this site. Also, don't climb this with anything shorter than a 70m.

By Mark D Evans
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Fantastic route!! Keeps coming at you! Loved the micro crimp face up high! Seemed to me that the steep crux and vertical crux are one right after the other. The upper crux is really tricky to figure out, but not quite .12 in my opinion. All in all, this route is definitely full on and CLASSIC! Nice work gents!

By Andy Jacobsen
Mar 3, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Sooooooooo good. One of my all-time lcc favorites.