Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Dan Hare and Joel Schiavone, 1982
Page Views: 3,211 total · 14/month
Shared By: Rich Farnham on Aug 27, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is on the left side of the formation between the huge roof of Resonator (12d) and a dirty gully/chimney system to its left. The climb is a little dirty at the start because it doesn't see much traffic, but it gets much better at the roof.

Climb up into the flared slot below the roof. Follow perfect hand jams out and over the roof to a rest stance above it. Climb the left-leaning, left-facing dihedral for about 40 feet until it disappears into the face. This corner involves great stems and finger locks as it pulls over two bulges. Continue up the face (easy but runout) to the new anchors, or keep going up the very-runout, lichen-covered, low angle slabs for 50 feet to the grassy ledge. From here (presumably, I haven't done it), continue for several pitches to the top of the formation and walk off.

Protection Suggest change

SR to a #3 Camalot. Doubles on medium TCUs and thin hands (red Camalot) are helpful. Despite the large alcove and roof at the bottom of the route, with careful runner placement I was able to keep the rope drag from being an issue. Once you clear the roof, there is a good blue or green alien placement about 6 feet up to the right that will keep your rope from disappearing into the hand crack at the lip of the roof and getting stuck on a cam.

Photos

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